BRAKES
AND WHEELS PAGE THREE...
MONTY HAS MORE THOUGHTS
REGARDING THE CARE AND FEEDING OF ORIGINAL GOODYEAR BRAKES... (040400)
(Monty sent the following
to Swifter Roy Cook...)
I would like to offer you
some hints on how to check over Goodyear brakes. The main parts are, the
wheels, the brake head, the linings (the "pucks") the brake disks, and
the brake clips which hold the disks in the wheels. Inspect the wheels
for cracks and worn brake keys. The keys are replaceable, but if they
are worn, I would suggest you just get a different inner wheel half. Inspect
and grease the wheel bearings. Inspect the brake disks for wear, rust,
warping and worn key slots. Make sure they are Swift brake disks, back
in the '40's there were thinner (cheaper) disks around and many found
there way onto Swifts. The thin disks work OK, but the linings just don't
last as long because they have to extend further with the thin disks.
Sorry I can't give you part numbers, I think the good disks are about
.150 thick. Clean and inspect the brake head. (anvil) If the piston bore
is scored or scratched it can be sanded with 320 wet or dry sandpaper.
Check the recess for the stationary lining and make sure it isn't worn
or deformed from corrosion. There are just two "O" rings which are standard
sizes, one on the piston and one on the cap. (well, one small one on the
AN fitting too) Look for cracks at the attach bolt holes. To reassemble,
bolt the brake on the axle, place the linings in position then put the
disk in place, then slide the wheel and tire assembly on the axle, lining
up the brake keys with the keyslots. Last but not least are the little
spring steel clips which hold the brake disks in the wheels. There are
4 of these and they are very important. The latest type have little buttons
to hold them in place and you should have this type. The normal replacement
items are the linings, the "O" rings and the clips. These parts are hard
to find new, and the price is unbelievable. For example, the little clips
which look like about a 25 cent item from the hardware store are more
like $25 bucks, if you can find them. If you replace the tires while the
brakes are off, buy the cheapest McCreary (Air Trac) tires, they are much
lighter than premium tires. This is especially important on a Swift, because
heavy tires slow down the gear retraction. -- Jim
MONTY IS REAL EASY ON
HIS TIRES... (040500)
Subj: Tires,
From:Steve Whittenberger <jssjwhitt@email.msn.com>
I learn something every week from the Answer man. Subject is tires. You
said to replace tires with lighter McCrearys. Sounds good to me as I am
just getting ready to put P-51 gear doors on N78193 and I of course will
need new tires. Question is: Since they are lighter than premium tires
how long do they last (years, months, landings) when used from asphalt
strips. Thanks, Steve Whittenberger
Steve,
Darned if I know. I fly so few hours that I usually have to throw them
away from age before the tread wears. Maybe someone else will comment.
The ones I have now I think I put on in 1993. At maybe 125 hours, they
still look pretty good. (of course I make nothing but greaser landings)
-- Jim
BLEEDING CLEVELAND BRAKES...
(060500)
Subject: Re: Cleveland Brakes
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Jim: I am replacing both of my brake line hoses with new ones. Do
you bleed the brakes in the same manner as an auto? Thanks. Bob Runge
Bob,
You can try it, however most aircraft bleed the best from the "bottom
up" using a pressure can. Also, I have found that Clevelands on a Swift
sometimes won't bleed out completely unless you hold the brake head about
level with the wing leading edge and bleed it there. The stock bleeder
plug as furnished with the Cleveland brakes hits a rib in the wheelwell
on gear retraction, and is usually replaced with a plain 1/8" pipe plug.
For bleeding, just hold a finger over the opening. -- Jim
BRAKE PROBLEM - OR- STEVE'S
GETTIN' TIRED OF DOIN' 720'S... (100100)
From: Steve Whittemberger <jssjwhitt@email.msn.com>
Jim, I'm having a spat with my left brake. Symptoms: Pedal goes to the
floor with no braking action. (Kind of fun doing 270 degree turns to turn
left-- but not very practicable and scary on landing). So we bled the
brakes (many many times) using a pressure can and eliminated bubbles and
got good flow. Took off the brake lines and inspected for goo and other
nasty stuff. Ground test was not good so we pulled the master cylinder,
called for parts to Swift Parts, installed the parts and put it back on.
Viola-- good brake for about 6 or eight turns over to the fuel pump before
takeoff. However, as I was turning to run up the brake failed again--so
a few 270's later got it back over to George's hangar for another look.
Re-bled etc etc several times. Good brake and did a taxi test this time
with lots of left and right turns. After about 8-10 left turns-- no brake.
More 270's to the hangar etc. When we rebuilt the master cylinder, we
cleaned it, scrubbed it with some emory paper (very fine) and reseated
the the innards. Looks good, but works not so good. Analyis is that with
the pedal going all the way in after many applications and no leaks anywhere--
it must be bypassing in the master cylinder. Any suggestions on what to
do next. Monday we'll take a crack at it again and tear down the MC again
and see what it looks like. Tired of 270 degree turns. Cheers. Steve Whittenberger
Steve,
You say "master cylinder" - there are two master cylinders - a left and
a right. Um, did you mean that or are you not not aware of the L &
R master cylinders? You don't say what kind of brakes you have. Most Swifts
have Cleveland brakes these days. Sometimes they are difficult to bleed.
Even with a pressure bleeder and working from the bottom up the air just
won't bleed out completely. If this happens, remove the brake from the
axle and undo the two clamps from the strut. (you may as well remove the
gear door) Then hold the brake up about to the leading edge of the wing
and bleed it automobile style, by depressing the brake pedal and cracking
the bleeder screw in the brake. (temporarily reassemble the brake and
install a dummy rotor between the linings) There are other things that
could happen, like an obstructed line, or oil on the lining, but bleeding
is the best place to start. With the airplane on jacks, have someone apply
the brakes in the cockpit. Observe the brake to see if it's being applied.
Try rotating the wheel with the brakes on. Make sure you keep the reservoir
full of 5606. -- Jim
DARYL'S EXCELLENT BRAKE
BLEEDING ADVENTURE... (110100)
From: Daryl Dressler <dddressler2@mmm.com>
Subject: Re: October #5 GTS Internet Update
Greetings,
Several issues ago there was some discussion about bleeding brakes. A
couple of weeks ago, I was trying to bleed my brakes by pumping them up
from the bottom. I pumped until the reservoir was full but still had air
in the system and spongy brakes. I did this several times until I realized
( what most others may know so maybe I am a little slow) that, with the
airplane in a nose high attitude, the master cylinder is angled upward.
The line from the brakes enters the front of the master cylinder and the
line to the reservoir exits the rear. When you pump up from the bottom,
the master cylinder fills from the rear because it is angled upward. As
soon as the level covers the exit, fluid is then pumped to the reservoir
leaving air trapped in the front of the master cylinder. I raised the
tail until the master cylinders were inclined downward slightly back to
front. Then I pumped the system full from the brake cylinder at the wheel.
It worked perfectly the first time ! Daryl Dressler
THOSE "BLEEDING"
BRAKES... (110200)
From: "Bill Jacobs" <wjacobs@sybase.com>
Subject: RE: November #1 GTS Internet Update
Denis:
A tech question regarding brake bleeding. Regarding brake bleeding: I
had problems getting firm brakes on my Swift with Clevelands after a c/c
rebuild. Just couldn't get those darned bubbles out. And I *hate* bleeding
"upward" as all the crud and oxidation goes up into the master
cylinders and reservoir. So, I used the following procedure. I filled
the reservoir and applied 5 PSI of compressed regulated air. Then I bled
to clean fluid on both bleeders while mounted on the gear. This got the
crud out. Then I refilled, disconnected the air, and removed both calipers,
installing "C" clamps to avoid disloding the pistons when I
reapplied the compressed air source. Then I individually bled each caliper
while held inverted to evacuate the bubbles. This worked really well -
rock-hard brakes first try, and clean fluid throughout (and on the floor...)
And Charlie Cummins, I can
hear you laughing 'cause I'm just sure you know a faster way but I didn't
call you. My question is, could the 5 PSI in any way hurt the seals in
the masters cylinders? And heck, if Charlie's out there, is there a faster
way to get both clean, flushed fluid and bubble-free brakes? -- Bill Jacobs
Bill,
The brakes have (perhaps) several hundred pounds pressure in the system
when they are applied, so 5 psi should be ok. I never used that exact
procedure but don't see why it wouldn't work. -- Jim
BAD BRAKES...(030401)
From: Don Cumpston <don@penn.com>
No swift action in NW PA, too much snow and too much wind. N78320 is having
a slight brake problem on the left side. The Cleveland brake drags, pads
are free and slide on pins OK. Appears as thought the piston is not returning
into the caliper. You can press it back in but the wheel will not turn
free after the brakes are applied like the other side. I think the caliper
must need rebuilt.
Don,
Take it apart and lube up the "O" ring with Vaseline. Sand the
walls of the brake cylinder with 400 grit sandpaper. Reassemble. Bleed
the brake. It should be OK then.
BAD BRAKES PART DEUX...(030401)
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
I suggest taking brake assembly off and using fine Scotch Brite to LIGHTLY
clean shafts/pins which are supposed to float in metal plate on axle assembly.
These shafts/pins pick up dirt and grime (and some corrosion) and begin
to bind. They are supposed to float easily (the assembly should "flop
around". Don't use too much force to clean grime or you will remove
plating on these shafts/pins and they will rust. Clean the shafts/pins
as you would oil a gun -- light coat of oil to prevent corrosion. You
could use Carb Cleaner spray (a solvent) to spray them clean periodically,
then do the "gun barrel" wipe. If you grab ahold of the caliper
assembly, you should be able to move it easily, and rattle it around.
If it does not move, clean those two shafts/pins as mentioned above. This
is a common problem with Cleveland brakes, but one easy to keep an eye
on. -- Steve Roth
RIGHT SIDE BRAKES... (040101)
Subj: Swift right side brakes
From: Eddis Shields <wvswift@aol.com>
Jim:
Did the swift right side brakes have master cylinders on them? If so,
how do you connect them up with the other side? Is there any drawings
on the installation? I can't find anything in the parts catalogue. Eddie
Eddie
No, the factory setup uses a set of links and arms to actuate the same
set of master cylinders. Dennis Mee might have some drawings. Steve Wilson
has factory installed right hand brakes in N77753. John Cross has double
set of master cylinders in N2398B, but I think someone installed them
sometime in the past without paperwork. I presume N2398B has check valves
properly installed because I used to fly that airplane and the brakes
worked fine. The Swift parts catalogue is not very adequate for a lot
of things! Univair used to have drawings for the RH brakes, I don't know
if they might have some at Athens or not. -- Jim
STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE DISCS...(070301)
From: Don Thomson <SwifterDon@compuserve.com>
Do you have any advice on whether to install stainless or chrome disks?
Also, I'm not sure what the model # is for the Clevelands I have installed
(they're the standard STC'd ones). I want to be sure to order the right
disk to fit my standard size wheels. One more thing, as long as I have
your attention. What's the part # for the replacement pads for the Clevelands.
I might as well do everything at the same time.
Don
I don't have the stainless -- but I wish I did! I have no experience with
them, but they sure look nice! The P/N for the Cleveland linings is 199-05300.
I THINK the P/N for the disk is P/N 164-04300 for the chrome, but I'm
not sure about that, check visually! -- Jim
PS... I don't have stainless (or chrome!) I think the stainless and chrome
take the same disks.
Well, I mean the stainless is P/N 40-113A and the chrome is 40-113C (I
think!)
ADVICE FOR DON "BETTER USE ORGANIC BRAKE LININGS" THOMSON...
(070401)
From: Chuck Widowski <CWid71358@aol.com>
Subject: Re: July #3 GTS Internet Update
If Don is planning on buying stainless discs, I have just installed a
set on a Cherokee. The STC holder for that installation ( sorry I don't
remember the manufacturer.) requires you to use organic brake linings.
If you need the manufacturer of these discs send me an e-mail and I will
look it up.
Chuck Widowski
BLEED VALVE ON CLEVELAND
BRAKES HIT RIB IN WHEELWELL...(120101)
Subj: More Questions
From: John Cross <crosses@houston.rr.com>
Have you ever run into a problem with the bleed valve of the Cleveland
brake rubbing against the rib (former) in the wheel well? John Cross N2398B
John
Yes. EVERYONE who has Cleveland brakes has that problem. I simply discard
the Cleveland bleeder and install a simple 1/8" pipe plug with an
Allen head. For bleeding, I just crack the pipe plug, bleed the brake,
and retighten the pipe plug. The pipe plug can be purchased from aircraft
sources or a hardware store. I've seen where some airplanes have the rib
ground out to provide clearance, but I'd rather not do that. -- Jim
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER BOOTS...(060302)
Subj: Master cylinder boots
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Jim:
Would you have any suggestions about where to get replacement rubber boots
for the master cylinders? Steve at Parts said they don't have any of the
originals but do have one thats close and will work.Would appreciate your
input. Thanks, Doc Moore
Doc
I just rebuilt the master cylinders in N2460B and wrote down the p/n's
that were on the rubber boots, but now I can't find my notes! I remember
sharing that info with Steve Wilson, maybe he wrote it down. Even with
a number, the originals might be unobtainable. The original Goodyear master
cylinder assembly was p/n 395-20293, if thats any help. Maybe the boots
from a small foreign car or motorcycle would work. -- Monty
STEVE SAYS SWIFT PARTS MASTER CYLINDER BOOTS WORK...(060402)
Subject: Master Cylinder Boots
From: Steve Roth <swift97b@aol.com>
Monty: The master cylinder rubber boots that Swift Parts has will fit
the Swift master cylinders if you take off the parking brake parts (which
are a menace anyway). I just did mine and the new ones worked perfectly.
Steve Roth
BRAKE BLEEDING PROCEDURE...(OCT 02)
Subj: Brakes
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I worked on my brakes a little bit and they are better than ever
now. I have Clevelands on it. I had some air trapped in the caliper on
one side and was not sure how to get it out. The bleeder screw is on the
bottom but it has been replaced by a plug. I know this was suggested at
one of the maintenance forums so this is a good thing. Someone else must
have done it years ago. Anyway pumping the brake pedals and removing the
plug did not seem to do any good since the air was in the top and the
fluid came out the bottom. I ended up simply taking the brake line off
of the caliper and submerging the end of the brake line in about an inch
of hydraulic fluid. Just enough to completely cover the entire fitting
on the end of the line. Now someone can pump the brakes and fluid will
go out into the small cup I was using but could not suck air back in because
the end of the hose was submerged. I did get a little air out of the line
and it is real obvious when air comes out. Then I took a squirt can of
hydraulic fluid and filled the caliper while the hose was off of it. Reconnect
the brake line while fluid runs everywhere and presto, no more air in
the system anywhere. To make the directions short and sweet, just forget
about the bleeder screws. Take the hose off, submerge the end of it in
fluid and pump away, it works. My brakes are now rock hard and work better
than ever. This may be old stuff to some mechanics but I was proud of
figuring out a simple solution that worked. I may end up being a decent
caretaker of 80740. marvin@accesstoledo.com
Marvin
That sounds good. I have also removed the caliper from the axle and unclamped
the brake hose and bled the brake with the thing being up around the wing
leading edge. -- Jim
MORE ON THE GOOPY BRAKE FLUID DEAL... (JAN 03)
From: Steve Wilson <SteveWlson@aol.com>
Subject: Re: December #4 GTS Internet Update
In a message dated 12/20/2002 19:10:50 Central Standard Time, arbeau@napanet.net
writes:
"5606 will absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air over
a period of time. If just a small amount of fluid is replaced periodically
this will not happen. i.e.: bleeding the brakes once in a while."
More on 5606 in brakes... This is what I do with any airplane similar
to Swift brake system utilizing 5606 installed more than a couple years...
(1) Flush system with fresh 5606 in the normal direction. In other words,
pushing on brakes while loosening the bleeder screw at the brakes individually.
I do this until I am certain the old fluid is out. Now, you only have
to do this once if you do the following regularly. (2) Each annual I reverse
bleed the system one brake at a time removing the excess 5606 from the
reservoir first. What I do with the Swift, is use a squeegee and remove
all the fluid from the reservoir on the firewall and then fill it about
full from one brake; check it for condition, and discard the fluid. Then
move over to the other brake and repeat the process. I check the fluid
in the reservoir and if it looks OK I stop, if not, I squeegee it out
completely, discard, and continue pumping in new 5606 until it looks OK.
Sound like a lot of trouble? Not really after the original flushing. You
do bleed your brakes at each annual anyway, don't you? (he he).. SW
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REBUILD... (JUNE 03)
Subj: brake rebuild
From: Paul Smith <paul.smith@bhshealth.org>
Jim,
Do you have any idea where one could get rebuild parts for the original
master cylinders. Alternatively are there other master cylinders that
could be used to replace the originals? The Swift parts supplier has crapped
out on them, and they are trying to find a new one. Thanks
Paul Smith
Paul
Some guys have gotten them resleeved by foreign car shops but I'm sorry
I don't know details. Others have adapted current master cylinders from
the Aircraft Spruce catalogue and I don't know the details of this either.
Perhaps someone will read this and help. -- Jim
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