BRAKES AND WHEELS PAGE THREE...


MONTY HAS MORE THOUGHTS REGARDING THE CARE AND FEEDING OF ORIGINAL GOODYEAR BRAKES... (040400)

(Monty sent the following to Swifter Roy Cook...)

I would like to offer you some hints on how to check over Goodyear brakes. The main parts are, the wheels, the brake head, the linings (the "pucks") the brake disks, and the brake clips which hold the disks in the wheels. Inspect the wheels for cracks and worn brake keys. The keys are replaceable, but if they are worn, I would suggest you just get a different inner wheel half. Inspect and grease the wheel bearings. Inspect the brake disks for wear, rust, warping and worn key slots. Make sure they are Swift brake disks, back in the '40's there were thinner (cheaper) disks around and many found there way onto Swifts. The thin disks work OK, but the linings just don't last as long because they have to extend further with the thin disks. Sorry I can't give you part numbers, I think the good disks are about .150 thick. Clean and inspect the brake head. (anvil) If the piston bore is scored or scratched it can be sanded with 320 wet or dry sandpaper. Check the recess for the stationary lining and make sure it isn't worn or deformed from corrosion. There are just two "O" rings which are standard sizes, one on the piston and one on the cap. (well, one small one on the AN fitting too) Look for cracks at the attach bolt holes. To reassemble, bolt the brake on the axle, place the linings in position then put the disk in place, then slide the wheel and tire assembly on the axle, lining up the brake keys with the keyslots. Last but not least are the little spring steel clips which hold the brake disks in the wheels. There are 4 of these and they are very important. The latest type have little buttons to hold them in place and you should have this type. The normal replacement items are the linings, the "O" rings and the clips. These parts are hard to find new, and the price is unbelievable. For example, the little clips which look like about a 25 cent item from the hardware store are more like $25 bucks, if you can find them. If you replace the tires while the brakes are off, buy the cheapest McCreary (Air Trac) tires, they are much lighter than premium tires. This is especially important on a Swift, because heavy tires slow down the gear retraction. -- Jim

MONTY IS REAL EASY ON HIS TIRES... (040500)
Subj: Tires,
From:Steve Whittenberger <jssjwhitt@email.msn.com>
I learn something every week from the Answer man. Subject is tires. You said to replace tires with lighter McCrearys. Sounds good to me as I am just getting ready to put P-51 gear doors on N78193 and I of course will need new tires. Question is: Since they are lighter than premium tires how long do they last (years, months, landings) when used from asphalt strips. Thanks, Steve Whittenberger

Steve,
Darned if I know. I fly so few hours that I usually have to throw them away from age before the tread wears. Maybe someone else will comment. The ones I have now I think I put on in 1993. At maybe 125 hours, they still look pretty good. (of course I make nothing but greaser landings) -- Jim

BLEEDING CLEVELAND BRAKES...  (060500)
Subject: Re: Cleveland Brakes
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Jim:  I am replacing both of my brake line hoses with new ones. Do you bleed the brakes in the same manner as an auto? Thanks. Bob Runge

Bob,
You can try it, however most aircraft bleed the best from the "bottom up" using a pressure can. Also, I have found that Clevelands on a Swift sometimes won't bleed out completely unless you hold the brake head about level with the wing leading edge and bleed it there. The stock bleeder plug as furnished with the Cleveland brakes hits a rib in the wheelwell on gear retraction, and is usually replaced with a plain 1/8" pipe plug. For bleeding, just hold a finger over the opening. -- Jim

BRAKE PROBLEM - OR- STEVE'S GETTIN' TIRED OF DOIN' 720'S... (100100)
From: Steve Whittemberger <jssjwhitt@email.msn.com>
Jim, I'm having a spat with my left brake. Symptoms: Pedal goes to the floor with no braking action. (Kind of fun doing 270 degree turns to turn left-- but not very practicable and scary on landing). So we bled the brakes (many many times) using a pressure can and eliminated bubbles and got good flow. Took off the brake lines and inspected for goo and other nasty stuff. Ground test was not good so we pulled the master cylinder, called for parts to Swift Parts, installed the parts and put it back on. Viola-- good brake for about 6 or eight turns over to the fuel pump before takeoff. However, as I was turning to run up the brake failed again--so a few 270's later got it back over to George's hangar for another look. Re-bled etc etc several times. Good brake and did a taxi test this time with lots of left and right turns. After about 8-10 left turns-- no brake. More 270's to the hangar etc. When we rebuilt the master cylinder, we cleaned it, scrubbed it with some emory paper (very fine) and reseated the the innards. Looks good, but works not so good. Analyis is that with the pedal going all the way in after many applications and no leaks anywhere-- it must be bypassing in the master cylinder. Any suggestions on what to do next. Monday we'll take a crack at it again and tear down the MC again and see what it looks like. Tired of 270 degree turns. Cheers. Steve Whittenberger

Steve,
You say "master cylinder" - there are two master cylinders - a left and a right. Um, did you mean that or are you not not aware of the L & R master cylinders? You don't say what kind of brakes you have. Most Swifts have Cleveland brakes these days. Sometimes they are difficult to bleed. Even with a pressure bleeder and working from the bottom up the air just won't bleed out completely. If this happens, remove the brake from the axle and undo the two clamps from the strut. (you may as well remove the gear door) Then hold the brake up about to the leading edge of the wing and bleed it automobile style, by depressing the brake pedal and cracking the bleeder screw in the brake. (temporarily reassemble the brake and install a dummy rotor between the linings) There are other things that could happen, like an obstructed line, or oil on the lining, but bleeding is the best place to start. With the airplane on jacks, have someone apply the brakes in the cockpit. Observe the brake to see if it's being applied. Try rotating the wheel with the brakes on. Make sure you keep the reservoir full of 5606. -- Jim

DARYL'S EXCELLENT BRAKE BLEEDING ADVENTURE... (110100)
From: Daryl Dressler <dddressler2@mmm.com>
Subject: Re: October #5 GTS Internet Update
Greetings,
Several issues ago there was some discussion about bleeding brakes. A couple of weeks ago, I was trying to bleed my brakes by pumping them up from the bottom. I pumped until the reservoir was full but still had air in the system and spongy brakes. I did this several times until I realized ( what most others may know so maybe I am a little slow) that, with the airplane in a nose high attitude, the master cylinder is angled upward. The line from the brakes enters the front of the master cylinder and the line to the reservoir exits the rear. When you pump up from the bottom, the master cylinder fills from the rear because it is angled upward. As soon as the level covers the exit, fluid is then pumped to the reservoir leaving air trapped in the front of the master cylinder. I raised the tail until the master cylinders were inclined downward slightly back to front. Then I pumped the system full from the brake cylinder at the wheel. It worked perfectly the first time ! Daryl Dressler

THOSE "BLEEDING" BRAKES... (110200)
From: "Bill Jacobs" <wjacobs@sybase.com>
Subject: RE: November #1 GTS Internet Update
Denis:
A tech question regarding brake bleeding. Regarding brake bleeding: I had problems getting firm brakes on my Swift with Clevelands after a c/c rebuild. Just couldn't get those darned bubbles out. And I *hate* bleeding "upward" as all the crud and oxidation goes up into the master cylinders and reservoir. So, I used the following procedure. I filled the reservoir and applied 5 PSI of compressed regulated air. Then I bled to clean fluid on both bleeders while mounted on the gear. This got the crud out. Then I refilled, disconnected the air, and removed both calipers, installing "C" clamps to avoid disloding the pistons when I reapplied the compressed air source. Then I individually bled each caliper while held inverted to evacuate the bubbles. This worked really well - rock-hard brakes first try, and clean fluid throughout (and on the floor...)

And Charlie Cummins, I can hear you laughing 'cause I'm just sure you know a faster way but I didn't call you. My question is, could the 5 PSI in any way hurt the seals in the masters cylinders? And heck, if Charlie's out there, is there a faster way to get both clean, flushed fluid and bubble-free brakes? -- Bill Jacobs

Bill,
The brakes have (perhaps) several hundred pounds pressure in the system when they are applied, so 5 psi should be ok. I never used that exact procedure but don't see why it wouldn't work.  --  Jim

BAD BRAKES...(030401)
From: Don Cumpston <don@penn.com>
No swift action in NW PA, too much snow and too much wind. N78320 is having a slight brake problem on the left side. The Cleveland brake drags, pads are free and slide on pins OK. Appears as thought the piston is not returning into the caliper. You can press it back in but the wheel will not turn free after the brakes are applied like the other side. I think the caliper must need rebuilt.

Don,
Take it apart and lube up the "O" ring with Vaseline. Sand the walls of the brake cylinder with 400 grit sandpaper. Reassemble. Bleed the brake. It should be OK then.

BAD BRAKES PART DEUX...(030401)
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
I suggest taking brake assembly off and using fine Scotch Brite to LIGHTLY clean shafts/pins which are supposed to float in metal plate on axle assembly. These shafts/pins pick up dirt and grime (and some corrosion) and begin to bind. They are supposed to float easily (the assembly should "flop around". Don't use too much force to clean grime or you will remove plating on these shafts/pins and they will rust. Clean the shafts/pins as you would oil a gun -- light coat of oil to prevent corrosion. You could use Carb Cleaner spray (a solvent) to spray them clean periodically, then do the "gun barrel" wipe. If you grab ahold of the caliper assembly, you should be able to move it easily, and rattle it around. If it does not move, clean those two shafts/pins as mentioned above. This is a common problem with Cleveland brakes, but one easy to keep an eye on. -- Steve Roth

RIGHT SIDE BRAKES... (040101)
Subj: Swift right side brakes
From: Eddis Shields <wvswift@aol.com>
Jim:
Did the swift right side brakes have master cylinders on them? If so, how do you connect them up with the other side? Is there any drawings on the installation? I can't find anything in the parts catalogue. Eddie

Eddie
No, the factory setup uses a set of links and arms to actuate the same set of master cylinders. Dennis Mee might have some drawings. Steve Wilson has factory installed right hand brakes in N77753. John Cross has double set of master cylinders in N2398B, but I think someone installed them sometime in the past without paperwork. I presume N2398B has check valves properly installed because I used to fly that airplane and the brakes worked fine. The Swift parts catalogue is not very adequate for a lot of things! Univair used to have drawings for the RH brakes, I don't know if they might have some at Athens or not. -- Jim

STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE DISCS...(070301)
From: Don Thomson <SwifterDon@compuserve.com>
Do you have any advice on whether to install stainless or chrome disks? Also, I'm not sure what the model # is for the Clevelands I have installed (they're the standard STC'd ones). I want to be sure to order the right disk to fit my standard size wheels. One more thing, as long as I have your attention. What's the part # for the replacement pads for the Clevelands. I might as well do everything at the same time.

Don
I don't have the stainless -- but I wish I did! I have no experience with them, but they sure look nice! The P/N for the Cleveland linings is 199-05300. I THINK the P/N for the disk is P/N 164-04300 for the chrome, but I'm not sure about that, check visually! -- Jim
PS... I don't have stainless (or chrome!) I think the stainless and chrome take the same disks.
Well, I mean the stainless is P/N 40-113A and the chrome is 40-113C (I think!)

ADVICE FOR DON "BETTER USE ORGANIC BRAKE LININGS" THOMSON... (070401)
From: Chuck Widowski <CWid71358@aol.com>
Subject: Re: July #3 GTS Internet Update
If Don is planning on buying stainless discs, I have just installed a set on a Cherokee. The STC holder for that installation ( sorry I don't remember the manufacturer.) requires you to use organic brake linings. If you need the manufacturer of these discs send me an e-mail and I will look it up.
Chuck Widowski

BLEED VALVE ON CLEVELAND BRAKES HIT RIB IN WHEELWELL...(120101)
Subj: More Questions
From: John Cross <crosses@houston.rr.com>
Have you ever run into a problem with the bleed valve of the Cleveland brake rubbing against the rib (former) in the wheel well? John Cross N2398B

John
Yes. EVERYONE who has Cleveland brakes has that problem. I simply discard the Cleveland bleeder and install a simple 1/8" pipe plug with an Allen head. For bleeding, I just crack the pipe plug, bleed the brake, and retighten the pipe plug. The pipe plug can be purchased from aircraft sources or a hardware store. I've seen where some airplanes have the rib ground out to provide clearance, but I'd rather not do that. -- Jim

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER BOOTS...(060302)
Subj: Master cylinder boots
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Jim:
Would you have any suggestions about where to get replacement rubber boots for the master cylinders? Steve at Parts said they don't have any of the originals but do have one thats close and will work.Would appreciate your input. Thanks, Doc Moore

Doc
I just rebuilt the master cylinders in N2460B and wrote down the p/n's that were on the rubber boots, but now I can't find my notes! I remember sharing that info with Steve Wilson, maybe he wrote it down. Even with a number, the originals might be unobtainable. The original Goodyear master cylinder assembly was p/n 395-20293, if thats any help. Maybe the boots from a small foreign car or motorcycle would work. -- Monty

STEVE SAYS SWIFT PARTS MASTER CYLINDER BOOTS WORK...(060402)
Subject: Master Cylinder Boots
From: Steve Roth <swift97b@aol.com>
Monty: The master cylinder rubber boots that Swift Parts has will fit the Swift master cylinders if you take off the parking brake parts (which are a menace anyway). I just did mine and the new ones worked perfectly. Steve Roth

BRAKE BLEEDING PROCEDURE...(OCT 02)
Subj: Brakes
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I worked on my brakes a little bit and they are better than ever now. I have Clevelands on it. I had some air trapped in the caliper on one side and was not sure how to get it out. The bleeder screw is on the bottom but it has been replaced by a plug. I know this was suggested at one of the maintenance forums so this is a good thing. Someone else must have done it years ago. Anyway pumping the brake pedals and removing the plug did not seem to do any good since the air was in the top and the fluid came out the bottom. I ended up simply taking the brake line off of the caliper and submerging the end of the brake line in about an inch of hydraulic fluid. Just enough to completely cover the entire fitting on the end of the line. Now someone can pump the brakes and fluid will go out into the small cup I was using but could not suck air back in because the end of the hose was submerged. I did get a little air out of the line and it is real obvious when air comes out. Then I took a squirt can of hydraulic fluid and filled the caliper while the hose was off of it. Reconnect the brake line while fluid runs everywhere and presto, no more air in the system anywhere. To make the directions short and sweet, just forget about the bleeder screws. Take the hose off, submerge the end of it in fluid and pump away, it works. My brakes are now rock hard and work better than ever. This may be old stuff to some mechanics but I was proud of figuring out a simple solution that worked. I may end up being a decent caretaker of 80740. marvin@accesstoledo.com

Marvin
That sounds good. I have also removed the caliper from the axle and unclamped the brake hose and bled the brake with the thing being up around the wing leading edge. -- Jim

MORE ON THE GOOPY BRAKE FLUID DEAL... (JAN 03)
From: Steve Wilson <SteveWlson@aol.com>
Subject: Re: December #4 GTS Internet Update
In a message dated 12/20/2002 19:10:50 Central Standard Time, arbeau@napanet.net writes:
"5606 will absorb a certain amount of moisture from the air over a period of time. If just a small amount of fluid is replaced periodically this will not happen. i.e.: bleeding the brakes once in a while."
More on 5606 in brakes... This is what I do with any airplane similar to Swift brake system utilizing 5606 installed more than a couple years... (1) Flush system with fresh 5606 in the normal direction. In other words, pushing on brakes while loosening the bleeder screw at the brakes individually. I do this until I am certain the old fluid is out. Now, you only have to do this once if you do the following regularly. (2) Each annual I reverse bleed the system one brake at a time removing the excess 5606 from the reservoir first. What I do with the Swift, is use a squeegee and remove all the fluid from the reservoir on the firewall and then fill it about full from one brake; check it for condition, and discard the fluid. Then move over to the other brake and repeat the process. I check the fluid in the reservoir and if it looks OK I stop, if not, I squeegee it out completely, discard, and continue pumping in new 5606 until it looks OK. Sound like a lot of trouble? Not really after the original flushing. You do bleed your brakes at each annual anyway, don't you? (he he).. SW

BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REBUILD... (JUNE 03)
Subj: brake rebuild
From: Paul Smith <paul.smith@bhshealth.org>
Jim,
Do you have any idea where one could get rebuild parts for the original master cylinders. Alternatively are there other master cylinders that could be used to replace the originals? The Swift parts supplier has crapped out on them, and they are trying to find a new one. Thanks

Paul Smith

Paul
Some guys have gotten them resleeved by foreign car shops but I'm sorry I don't know details. Others have adapted current master cylinders from the Aircraft Spruce catalogue and I don't know the details of this either. Perhaps someone will read this and help. -- Jim


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