LYCOMING O-360
==========================
LYCOMING CAMSHAFT LUBRICATION...
From: rchisholm@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: Ney Nozzles
I'm in the middle of overhauling my Lyc 180 and considering installing
Ney nozzles to lube the cam lobes & tappets. Any thoughts or advice
on this mod? Bob Webster of the KY wing recommended them.
Dick,
Nice to hear from you. I have no first hand knowledge of the Ney nozzles,
but having seen premature cam wear on Lycoming engines, I can't help but
think they must be a good deal. As you know, the cam is above the crankshaft
on a Lycoming, so it sometimes starts dry, and never does get all the
splash lubrication a Continental cam gets. The O-235 in the Cessna 152
and Piper Tomahawk is a nearly bullet-proof engine, which has been known
to go 3000 hours. A friend has one which was made in the early '80's,
as a privately owned airplane it doesn't get the hours put on it like
a flight school. His engine last year, with 1500 hours, was down on power.
It took no oil and otherwise ran well. A check, with the valve covers
off, revealed a couple of valves which were barely opening, the result
of a worn camshaft and cam followers. Lycoming sells an oil additive,
LW-_____ (fancy version of STP) which prevents oil runoff from the cam
when it sits for awhile. It is marketed primarily for the "H" engines.
I have a friend who uses it in an "H" engine with over 1500 hours, which
runs like new. It might be cheaper than the nozzles! -- Jim
IS THE 180 HP LYCOMING THE BEST
ENGINE FOR THE SWIFT??? (11399)
Swifter Dick Marlow writes on the Yahoo Globe Temco Swift Club message
board...
As I am still putting my Swift together and not flying I would like to know the experience of other Swifters with 180hp and C/S prop. What has been the top speed and the cruise speed with this engine and prop. Thanks for the information. Dick Marlow <dick@themarlows.com>
To which Dave Carpenter replies...
The performance of a 180 swift can be given in one word.... GREAT!!! There
is no way to give speeds unless all the other modifications are known...
Swifts are the most modified aircraft on earth... A slick 180 with all
of the tricks is very fast... Just ask Bud Brown or Joe Ranson..I have
run both of them with my 210 and we still have lively discussions about
the outcome... enough to say that a good 180 will run with a 210 Swift...
with all of the tricks this means a real cruse speed of about 175 mph
at 7500' Dave Carpenter <dcarpenter@mciworld.com>
RON
IS GROWING WEARY OF BEATING THE AIR... (080300)
Subj: 0-360 Lycoming STC
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Jim, I sorta remember seeing where the Aeronautical Engineering STC for
the 0-360-A1A is now owned by the Swift Association. Do you know if there
are plans to come up with motor mounts and paper to make it usable? And/or
update to a Hartzell prop? How about getting the Swift Assn to be a Hartzell
preferred source? I'm growing weary of beating the air with the old style
Hartzell on my O-320 as everyone with the newer compact hubs seem to have
more speed or efficiency. If we could get the Van's or Glassair or Lancair
price on the C2YL hub that would be superb. Any thoughts? Ron
Ron,
I have heard also that the Swift Association now holds that STC. You will
have to talk with them as far as availability of any parts goes. I know
they have been trying to get OEM pricing on Lycoming engines and Hartzell
props. I don't know the parts man situation there right now, so I would
email Charlie directly at <swiftlychs@aol.com> -- Jim
LOTS
OF THINGS CAN CAUSE HIGH OIL TEMPS... (080400)
Subj: Hot Oil
From: Jay Prentice <jwpren@aol.com>
Dear Jim: I am back for more help. I have a 0-360 with oil cooler and
the oil temp is running (about 5 degrees below redline). The cylinder
head temp are OK and the oil pressure is OK. The first thing I did was
check the oil temperature bypass valve and temp probe and they seem to
work OK. Then I replaced the oil cooler. My Swift oil still runs hot.
Also the outside temp has been very hot (in the 100s) on the ground. My
plane doesn't have an oil filter, will adding oil filter with the added
qt of oil help? Can you give me any more suggestions to lower oil temp?
JW,
Now I forget, is that an O-360 Lyc? What "N" number airplane and what
cowl etc. is installed? Actually, with the temp. over 100, I guess any
oil temperature under red line is OK! Give me a few more details, but
a quick way to lower oil temp is to open the cowl flap a little. -- Jim
HOT
OIL TEMPS PART II... (080400)
Subj: hot oil
From: Jay Prentice <JWPREN@aol.com>
Dear Jim: I am back for more help. I have a 0-360 with oil cooler and
the oil temp is running (about 5 degrees below redline). The cylinder
head temp are OK and the oil pressure is OK. The first thing I did was
check the oil temperature bypass valve and temp probe and they seem to
work OK. Then I replaced the oil cooler. My swift oil still runs hot.
Also the outside temp has been very hot (in the 100s) on the ground. My
plane doesn't have an oil filter, will adding oil filter with the added
qt of oil help? Also, the info you requested I have Swift N3745K serial
number 1438 and it has a lyc. O-360 A1D. I have ordered an airwolf remote
mounted oil filter, and I was told that oil temperature gauges were calibrated
with 12 volts and in flight 13 to 16 volts causes the gauge to read high.
So, I went on a short flight and shut off the alternator switch and waited
of five minutes. The temp stayed at 240. Other advice is to increase the
size of the oil cooler and move it from the firewall to the aft baffle.
I would appreciate and help so I can fly my plane in July August and September.
Jay Prentice
Jay,
Ah yes, N3745K used to be Woody Cockran's airplane I believe and had a
"N" number ending in "WC" at one time. Without looking at your installation,
I can only give some general hints. Are the hoses to the oil cooler AN8?
AN6 are not big enough. A bigger oil cooler may be necessary. The mounting
position is important too - on the rear baffle seems preferred over a
firewall mount with an air duct. I mentioned opening the cowl flap. If
your cowl flap is not adjustable, an added piece of aluminum can be installed,
and at what may not be a streamlined angle, the idea here is to provide
more airflow through the cowl. You have already checked for an indication
problem, but you might consider a mechanical gauge, at least installed
temporarily. The Airwolf filter should help somewhat.
I have had several friends with Lycomings that had similar problems. One guy ended up with two oil coolers installed. The other guy was experimenting with a bigger oil cooler and rerouting his hoses. This is Charlie Hoover, who has an original Swift and also a Thorpe T-18 with the same engine you have. He went thru a period last summer where he had a similar problem with high oil temps. Yes, we do get 90 and 100 degree temperatures in Minnesota! (1.) He replaced the vernatherm, which has an AD note on it. (2.) He rerouted the oil cooler hoses after calling Lycoming. There are several ports in the accessory case and the ones that were being used had identical pressure, so little flow. Lycoming advised which two to use, but you could look at any Piper or Cessna with a O-360 Lycoming. (3.) He replaced the 7 row oil cooler with a 9 row oil cooler. (4.) He installed a 1" larger duct bringing air to the cooler, I think he has a 5" diameter duct now. He says the various measures worked and now he can count on no more than 95 degrees C at 100 degrees ambient F. -- Jim
THINKING OF CHANGING TO A 180HP
LYCOMING...(120500)
Subj: Upgrade to Lycoming 180 HP engine
From: Mike Brown <harbrown@mweb.co.za>
Dear Monty, I'm presently considering my options for upgrading the power
plant to a 180 HP Lycoming, to replace the shot 145 Continental in ZS-BCE.
Am I correct in assuming that the Swift Museum Foundation holds an STC
for this upgrade, or is it Merlyn Products? Any idea of the cost of the
STC? Also, I'll need to replace the prop. I have heard of a 3 blade prop
from TopProp - any info on this, or should I go for the usual 2 bladed
prop. I'd like to switch to a VP/Constant speed arrangement, any idea
if there are 2nd hand props available and where, and of course the cost?!
Many thanks for your assistance. Regards, Mike Brown
Mike,
The Swift Association has an STC for the 180 Lycoming, I don't know what's
available as far as hardware (engine mount etc.) I also don't know the
cost of the paperwork. Merlyn products has STC's for the Lycoming, Continental
and Franklin engines. They have a link off the Swift site with their email
address and phone numbers listed. I don't know if they have any engine
mounts in stock right now. I do know they make up a run of engine mounts
when they get enough orders. There are several 3 bladed props on Swifts
in the US. These are approved on a one-time basis and you would have to
talk to someone who has one who has one for information. As far as second
hand props go, "buyer beware" if you are buying a used prop.
In the US we have a lot of parts for sale in "Trade-A-Plane"
but I don't think I would buy a used prop from thousands of miles away.
-- Jim
O-360 QUESTION...(020201)
Subj: Lookin' at a Swift
From: John Cross <jpcross@airmail.net>
Monty:
I am going to have a pre-buy tomorrow in Lancaster TX. This one has a
O-360 with 1260 hrs SMOH. I have no experience with these engines. I have
heard stories of many, many hours between overhauls. I know you know nothing
about the particular engine, but was wondering what your general experience
with these engines is. How long do they go? Do they generally require
a top before major? etc. John Cross
John,
I presume that is a Lycoming O-360. This is one of the most "bulletproof"
engines available and commonly goes 2000 hours or more between overhauls.
Seldom will they require a top before overhaul. -- Jim
TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE VIBRATION
PROBLEMS...(020301)
From: Jim Kissick <SWIFT328@aol.com>
Subject: application for inclusion
Got introduced to your website by Skip Staub, another 0-360 Swift, former
USN pilot and personal friend. Please put me on your distribution list.
#78328 is hangared at Airport Manatee (48X) just east of the southern
end of Tampa Bay on Florida's sun- coast. I've owned her for about 20
years. Now am having a little trouble with a new vibration which could
be my crank counterweight or a problem with my prop. It varies directly
in proportion to rpm. Be very glad to get back in the air. Jim Kissick.
Jim,
Although it could be something internal in the engine I would first check
out the spinner and prop. Some spinners can be operated with the dome
removed, most can't with a constant speed. If you can run the engine with
the dome removed, try it. If you can't, perhaps the dome can be moved
180 degrees. Having said that, is there someone local who offers prop
balancing on the airplane? We have a service based at an airport 40 miles
from here and he will come up here if he gets 2 or 3 airplane owners to
use his service. I think he gets $150.00, and everyone I have talked to
says their engine/prop is smoother afterwards. I think the name of the
system he uses is the Helmuth-Chadwick balancing system. If such a system
is not available in FL, you may have to remove the prop and send it to
a prop shop. If the vibration started suddenly, check that the spinner
wasn't inadvertently installed 180 degrees of from where it was previously.
Before removing the prop check the engine compression to make sure it
is reasonably even. Do a mag check first to make sure you don't have a
mag or plug problem. How suddenly did the vibration come on? Is there
any obvious damage to the prop? Might there be a crack in the spinner
or bulkhead? How are your engine mount isolators? Jim, I remember you
and N78328 from the "old days" - I'm glad to hear from you.
-- Jim Montague
Jim Kissick replies...
Hello-o-o-o Monty. Gads, its good to be remembered. The vibrating O-360
seemed to commence (or be noticeable) two or three flights back - not
violent - just not ready to lose an engine nor a blade - doesn't get flow
near as much as I'd like. Vibration is about 2per rev and varies in direct
proportion to rpm - much more noticeable at lower rpm. As an A&P,
first am seeking oil spec. analysis, due tomorrow. If nothing, hopeful
its not crank balance, next will look at valve springs. New plugs and
mag ck. is a beautiful 50/80. If all cks OK the prop comes off (it's a
twice o'hauled one from a Ft. Lauderdale Co. replacement after the last
gear microswitch failed on landing) and goes to the prop shop in Tampa
about 35 miles from the airport. Most thankful - Jim Kissick
MYSTERIOUS VIBRATION FOUND WITH DEDICATED TROUBLESHOOTING...(030101)
From: Jim Kissick <SWIFT328@aol.com>
Subject: Agonies of ownership
Engine (O-360) getting rougher for some time. Flight a month ago, really
vibrating, returned to field. Decowl, check prop alignment etc. -- recowl
and testfly -- still sick. Send oil for spectroanalysis - "normal".
Drain oil and check magnet (my innovation) in oil pan strainer - clean.
Check all valve springs and tensions - fine. Replace oil and run compression
check -- all between 75 and 80. New plugs less than 20 hours ago. Remove
and examine fuel filter -- slight residue from recent fuel selector rebuild,
otherwise very clean. Pull plug at bottom of carburetor bowl and catch
outflow -- bingo!! -- out comes some black residue and a tiny (1/8"+
o/d) ferrous metal circle missing about 1/4 of its circumf. Carburetor
(MA 4-5) removed and sent to shop. When opened, found pump idler lever
& bushing assembly (man. item #74, p/n155-568 completely disassembled,
no cotter key. The tiny 3/4 circle was the top of the cotter key which,
apparently, had held it together. it was far smaller than the size key
mandated for the installation. Complete examination revealed NO trace
of the legs to the cotter key in the carburetor.
Obviously I'd been flyin with the O360 for about 20 years with the pump idler lever held together by a key that was far smaller than the one which should have been in it, and it finally just wore out. No evidence of the two legs could be turned up anywhere in the carb. Anyhow, it was reassembled with the proper size cotter key and the whole machine put back together. I did taxi it around the long "T" hanger building minus the cowling and did some high speed taxis and power jams on the grass taxiway. Damn, that engine sounds good for the first time in a long, long time. Not only that, it started a lot smoother. To my knowledge the small pin had to be installed before I bought the engine from a retired airline captain in Miami who had it in his living room as a standby for his Lake amphib, then went to a 200hp powerplant. Let you know how it is in the air.
Finally, after working on cowling and camlocks most of the day, got in the air just as the sun was dropping into the Gulf. The old Lyc sounds like it was built by Caterpillar.... again, finally!! Feel free to share if you think it will help, but I'm convinced it is an isolated case. My consensence from all the evidence is that someone before I got the engine was into the carb and when the cotter key was found to be almost impossible to install, went for the much smaller one. Over the years the tiny key finally wore out - or through. It is the semicircular crest of that key that flushed out when I drained the float bowl and pinpointed the area of agony. Think I told you the Lyc came off one of those 5-pass Beech twins (really hot) and was owned by a retired airline Capt. who had it in his living room as a spare for his Lake amphib. -- Jim
180HP LYCOMING PROBLEMS...(040501)
From: Jim Montague <Monty747@aol.com>
Subject: 180 Lyc power loss
I had advised Dave Briggs re: his 180 Lycoming in his Glassair. After
thinking about it, I thought maybe my advice would be pertinent for us
also since there are a fair amount of 180 Lycoming powered Swifts. I reconstructed
the emails from Dave and sent them to you. I hope the sequence is not
confusing. -- Jim
Subj: Lycoming power loss
From: David Briggs <davidgbriggs@yahoo.com>
Jim,
I have a Glasair I FT I built that has a 180 hp Lycoming IO360 B1E with
a fixed pitched 68 x 80 wood prop and a Light Speed Ignition replacing
one mag.. The engine has 900 hours on the second major, each done at 2000
hours. It seemed healthy at first turning 2400 rpm on initial take off
run but after 100 hours or so it would, without warning, be down on power
noticeable by the loss of about 50 rpm on takeoff run and climbout however
It continued to run smoothly. This would continue for several weeks then
without warning full power of 2400 rpm would return again. I checked all
the usual possibilities, air and fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, mag and
ignition timing, injectors, oil analysis for metal that might indicate
cam wear and talked with Terry Bell, a Bendix injection specialist. Plugs
seemed to help some but did not solve the problem. The problem continued
with no moments of full power the last several months. I measured cam
lift by putting a dial indicator directly on the push rods and found all
intake lifts to be close to .320 in. and all exhaust to be close to .350
in. Kevin at Bolduc Aviation said this was normal. Compression was a reasonable
70/80. In desperation I finally pulled the #1 jug because the EGT was
down 150 degrees and this would enable me to look at three cam lobes and
lifters and check the condition of the valves. The cam and lifters looked
good but Bolduc had to replace the exhaust valve and grind both seats.
The valve springs were a little weak. Before I button it up, do you have
any advice? Dave
Dave
I would recommend you replace all the valve springs and the hydraulic
units in the lifters. You cannot change the lifter bodies without splitting
the case but the hydraulic units can be removed with a hook made out of
a piece of safety wire. -- Jim
Jim
The #1 intake lifter had practically no oil in it so It is very possible
the valve was not openning fully which would explain the power loss. In
sum, all valve springs and tappet plungers were replaced and full power
was restored. I gained back the 2400 rpm and now get 2420-2440 rpm before
liftoff so it can be reported I conservatively gained 60 rpm on takeoff
and climbout which I'm guessing should translate to around 8 hp.I appreciate
your guidance. Dave
LYCOMING ENGINE/PROP COMBINATIONS...(040601)
Subj: Propellers for various engine options
From: MBrown@cromedica.com
Dear Monty
Some time ago, you provided me with valuable information on different
engine options for the Swift. I'm hopefully a little closer to resolving
this issue, and now would appreciate information on what props would be
applicable. The 2 engines available are: 1. Lycoming 0-360-A2D
2. Lycoming 0-360-A1A Of these, is there any preference (I know you prefer
6 Continental cylinders!), and what would you recommend as suitable props
for either of them, i.e do you have the specs? It would obviously be preferable
to fit a constant speed prop, as there is an existing CSU for both of
these motors, but I assume one could also blank that off and go with a
fixed pitch prop. If so, what would those specs be? Many thanks in advance
for your assistance. Kind regards, Mike
Mike
I think those are both the same, or very similar engines. The A2D refers
to the factory installed accessories. The STC that the Swift Association
sells calls for a McCauley 2D34C53-A/74E-0 prop. This is now an old propeller
and is seldom used anymore. More commonly used are various Hartzell propellers
as used on 180 hp Mooneys, such as the HC-C2YK-1 or 1B. The diameter is
usually 74" A fixed pitch prop is not a good idea. -- Jim
WHY FIXED PITCH PROP ON 180HP LYC IS NOT SUCH A GOOD IDEA... (050101)
Subj: Tailwheel ID
From: Dick Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Jim, I read your comments to Mike Brown regarding Lycoming engine conversions.
You said that the use of a fixed pitch prop wasn't a good idea and I was
wondering exactly why this is so. Thanks. Dick
Dick
There are several reasons why a fixed pitch prop is not a good idea. To
start with, a 180 Lycoming powered Swift will have a speed range from
approximately 60 to 180 mph. (120 mph range) Most fixed pitch airplanes
have a speed range of 70 or 80 mph. If the prop is pitched for takeoff,
it will be overspeeding at cruise airspeed. Conversely, if it is pitched
for cruise, the static rpm will be low and takeoff will be sluggish. A
further consideration is, the Lycoming O-360 is a high compression engine
and does not like to be "lugged" -- high manifold pressure and
low rpm. Which is the condition you would have on takeoff with a fixed,
high pitch prop. -- Jim
180HP LYCOMING MOTOR MOUNT... (100201)
Subj: Various
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Hi Monty:
Received my new motor mount that I had Kosola in Albany Georgia make for
me. They did a beautiful job and charged $1500.00. It seems steep but
after looking at 4 used ones I decided it was the way to go. They made
it per the STC for the 180 Lycoming that the Association holds so anyone
interested will be able to obtain a mount with good paperwork. I think
if you see someone interested have them call me as Lorenz Henry at Kosola
said he would pay me for referrals. I don't want the money so I would
want to call Henry and tell him to discount the mount. I don't know if
i got the total truth out of him or not but he told me part of the cost
was in building the jig. Well... now that he's got the jig the mount ought
to be cheaper. I talked to Bo Mabry and he offered to help but he didn't
know how long it would take him and I didn't really want him to take time
he didn't have to assist me. Doc Moore
MONTY SAYS IF YOU’RE STARTING FROM
SCRATCH GO WITH THE 180... (110201)
Subj: STC for 0-320 Lycoming conversion
From: David & Joyce Crouse <D.E.Crouse@worldnet.att.net>
Good morning Monty:
My name is Joyce and my husband and I are in search of a Swift for restoration.
We are very much excited about starting this huge endeavor and are realizing
that there is much we need to know about before going any further, but
we fell in love with the Swift as soon as we started looking for a restoration
project and feel that the Swift is more than worthy for the manpower and
resources we have available to do this project and do it right. We have
already been in contact with Denis Arbeau and are in the process of joining
the Swift Foundation. He referred us to you for more particular mechanical
questions. We have looked at a few birds and wanted to get this particular
information before continuing, as most of the ones we have checked out
have smaller engines. Do you know which manufacturer is used for the conversion
of a 0-320 Lycoming into a Swift, who holds the STC and where we might
find the STC number? Thank you for your help, Joyce
Joyce and David,
The STC for the O-320 installation was held by: Swift Tech Co. 503 Murray
Drive El Cajon, CA 92020. I don't know if they are actively selling the
STC now, or if they have parts available. The STC number is SA2-1007.
I would discourage the new installation of a 150 Lycoming for several
reasons.
1. It costs almost as much to install as a 180 without the performance.
2. It is an old conversion, using the old straight mounted O-320 and the
old Hartzell HC-82XL prop, which has an expensive AD note.
3. A 150 doesn't perform better than a 145, except the first 500 feet
of takeoff roll. If you can find a 150 hp Swift at a good price fine,
but I would not build up a new one. Back when there were a considerable
numbers of 85 hp Swifts around the 150 made a good conversion for those
airplanes. Now there are only about a half dozen GC-1A's left and they
are collectors items and I would not want to see any more of them converted.
If you are thinking of converting a 125 Swift to a 150, you would need
to change everything forward of the firewall, the engine mount, engine,
prop, exhaust, baffling and cowling. To install a 145 Continental you
only need to change the engine -- much cheaper and easier. The only advantage
the 150 has over the 145 is the constant speed prop. If you are determined
to do an engine conversion, I would suggest an IO-360 Lycoming or Continental.
Those engines provide super performance and are a good investment. --
Jim
(Editor says: Since we have both a 145hp Continental and 150hp Lycoming
Swift in the family I can agree with Monty about the 150 doing its thing
in the first 500 feet of takeoff roll and also I would honestly say initial
climb through about 5000 feet density altitude. That’s the advantage the
constant speed prop gives you. After that, it is almost an even match.
At least in our case...
Since the Swift Museum Foundation
owns the STC for the 180hp Lycoming installation, and the mount is being
made by to STC specs by Kosloa in Albany, GA, I’d go with the 180 vs the
150 Lyc if I was starting from scratch and had to choose. For more info
on the 180hp Lycoming conversion deal check with Louisiana Swifter Doc
Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>)
MORE ON THE 180HP LYCOMING DEAL... (110201)
Subj: 180 motor mounts
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Monty,
Saw the pix of the shiny 180 on Denis' web site. It looks like an old
case with the reinforcing rings on the flanges. Couldn't really get a
good look at the mount, but it looks like a dynafocal ring attached to
the same tube arrangement that the 150 straight mount uses. Do you know
anything about the new mount and what engines are covered by the STC that
Swift Assn has? Propeller is always a mystery - do you know if the lightweight
Hartzell series are usable on that paperwork? Just making out my Christmas
list . . . Ron
Ron
All I know is what you can see in the pics and read in Doc Moore's note.
Note I have cc'ed this to him, you can write him with questions. The Swift
Assn STC is for the O-360A1A. Lots of guys have used the newer lightweight
Hartzells, a good prop shop or Harzell can come up with supporting data
that the FAA will accept for a field approval or one-time STC. Talk to
Bill Foscharr <swift@yosemite.net>, he has a late prop on a 150
and he went thru the approval process. -- Jim
DOC MOORE WITH 180 LYC STC PROP
INFO TO ANSWER RON WILLIAMSON’S QUESTION FROM LAST ISSUE... (110301)
From: "Doc Moore" <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
The association called me about an addendum to the STC concerning using
the light Hartzell's as they don't have it. It appears that there is approval
for this but I did not have the drawing that included the change. I am
running one of those props (HC-C2YK-1BF with 7666-4 blades) My prop was
manufactured in 1975 and sold to Piper so I assume its off of an Arrow.
You can also use a C2YR-1BF hub. The C2YR hub can be used as either model.
The only difference is in the 5 countersunk flange holes. Mine was done
on a 337 by the former owner. I had mine overhauled while my engine was
being done. All the info I've learned about my prop was provided by Ed
Stanley at Hartzell (937-778-4385) who researched the origin of my hub
and blades. My prop was originally installed on my Swift in 1992.There
are numerous questions as to whether you can run a mount with the large
biscuits on an O-360-A1A or A1D. I've been told both yes and no. I think
Dorothy Golding's 180 has large biscuits. This was something I wrestled
with when working with Kosola in having the new mount made. We decided
that the mount needed to built exactly to the STC drawing so the paperwork
would be correct. This resulted in using Lord 7402 isolators that fit
a Beech Travel Air. The Association mount calls for a Model 95 dynafocal
ring and refers to a Beech part number for the ring. Kosola had the ring
bent per this part spec. Ron, if you need copies of any of the paperwork
I have to give you some guidance let me know. Tks, Doc
LYCOMING IO-360...(010202)
Subj: IO-360 Installation
From: Karl Johanson <karl.johanson@hs.utc.com>
Jim,
A while back you suggested that I look into an IO-360 instead of an IO-320.
I understand that there are one or more Swifts out there with O-320's
(or IO-320's) with a stock cowling adapted. Do you know of anyone specifically?
What are the O or IO 360 version numbers/letters that are STC'd for the
Swift? Which model number/letter O-360 and prop combination is SwiftParts
now selling as the engine and STC??). Having spoken with a few Swift owners
with IO-320s, I think the IO-320/CS prop is not a bad combination for
the Swift and is an economical solution with good performance. Long term,
an O-360 is no doubt a compelling package!! How can I get a Vert Stab
spar reinforcement part fabricated? I guess none are available at SwiftParts.
Thanks and regards, Karl N78103
Karl
I don't know anyone personally with a O-320 in the stock cowl. I think
Jon Tuuri has one in N78223. I think the preferred IO-360 is the IO-360A1B6,
but I don't have that information handy, I did some paperwork on one recently
but the logs are now back with the owner. The Swift Assn. STC for the
180 Lyc. is SA803SO. The doublers for the vertical fin must be fabricated.
This is not as easy as it might appear because they are curved and must
be heat treated. If they are fabricated out of 2024-O and formed and then
heat treated to 2024-T4, the 600+ degree oven must be big enough to accommodate
the doublers. Most rivet heat treating ovens are just a little too small
to do this. That has been the hangup with making more of those doublers.
-- Jim
(Editor says... For Karl and anyone
else thinking about the 180hp Lyc STC and installation it may be helpful
to contact Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com> for his thoughts on
the matter. He is just finishing up this installation on his Swift.)
SNAP LEMON SELLS LORD MOUNTS... (FEB 03)
From: Snap Lemon <Ricevilian@aol.com>
Subject: newsletter
Shake and rattle problems with lord mounts on the Lycoming 0 360a1a engine.
This is an easy fix when using the correct mount for a Swift. Most Swift
engine conversions have a close or tight engine cowling and does not like
to flop around like a dead fish on start up and shut down of the 4 cyl
Lycoming. If you should do some light aerobatics with a tight cowl you
will find a terrible slash low behind the spinner. As the mount becomes
old and compresses the engine sags in the front and spinner again contacts
cowl. There is a very simple cure for this by using the Lord J-7402-6
mount set. This is a set of eight mounts J-8381-1 and four spacers J-7635-1.
This mount set was intended for use on aerobatic and pusher installations.
It may require field approval on the STC you have that calls for a certian
number lord mount. Because this mount uses a steel center you may notice
some engine vibration. Last week here in Athens at the Swift Works this
mount set was installed on a 200hp Lycoming and the results are as advertised
almost no movement of engine on start up or shut down. In this installation
the engine was rebuilt and balanced and while running you could hold your
hand on the mount and feel no vibration whatsoever. The STC in this conversion
did not state a mount number, only lord mount set. There is a noticeable
difference when installing these mounts. As you torque the mounting bolts
you will notice the mount compresses into a donut shape or it will look
like it has a small ring around the center of the rubber. This happens
on both the outer and inner mount. On the standard mount the outer compresses
and the inner stretches, if not at installation it sure will after 10
or 20 hours of running. Using the standard lord mount the older it gets
the more the engine sags. These mounts are only available in the two inch
size. Some of the dynafocal mounts are made for a three inch mount. These
are only in two inch and are not available in three inch. Now for the
best part. this mount set of four mounts Lord number J-7402-6 is available
from sellers in Trade a Plane for as little as $208.00 per set. But right
now, while supply lasts as a Swift owner you can get as many sets of these
mounts as you would like to have for only $50.00 per set. At this price
you can afford to have a couple of spare sets. These Lord mounts are old
new stock and have been field tested for over a year. Over one hundred
sets of these mounts have been sold in the last 18 months and not one
unhappy customer. All you have to do is send $50.00 per set. and $8.00
shipping to Myrna Lemon, p.o.box 662. Athens,Tn. 37371. Include your UPS
shipping address and she will ship these out to you right away. --- Oops,
bad timing... We are out of town Feb 15th until Feb28th but any orders
received will be shipped by March 2nd. -- Snap