LANDING GEAR - GENERAL

MONTY MAKES THE CONNECTION! (pun intended...) REGARDING THE RARE TEMCO FACTORY "THREE MICROSWITCHES IN THE WHEEL WELL" MOD??? (FEB 03)
By Denis Arbeau <arbeau@napanet.net>
Most of us learn, as we become familiar with the landing gear system on the Swift, that if one of the two gear down microswitches gets "gummy" and stuck closed that we can get that single green light after selecting gear down but the gear really isn’t down and locked. Some Swifts have been modified so that there is a green light for each wheel instead of just one for both, (there is more than one way to do this), and that solves the problem.

Recently Texas Swifter Ed Lloyd found that his Swift had THREE microswitches in each wheel well. Most Swifts have two. California Swift Bill Weaver is also caretaker of a three microswitch Swift. I believe there is one other out there too but I can’t remember which Swift that is. Anyway... Since Bill Weaver has a set of the original Temco FACTORY drawings for that installation we all got to wondering what the deal was. Best guess up until recently was it was something borrowed from the Temco Buckaroo. Buck owner Charlie Nelson says not so.

OK...

In fact, Charlie has reminded us that the Maintenance & Operatons Manual", sold by the Swift Parts Dept., has a drawing and information by Nor-Cal Swifter Dick Collins which shows how to have individual green or down lights by simply adding one additional wire to the "unused" side of the micro switch already there. So as Paul Harvery says, "...and now the rest of the story!"

While emailing back and forth on the three switch deal Jim Montague deduced, and brought to Weaver’s and Lloyd’s attention, that both their airplanes had belonged to Texas A&M University. During the late 1940’s timeframe when those Swifts were under the care of the University, one of them had a landing gear failure due to that dreded "stuck microswitch" senario. The University then tasked Temco to come up with a way to eliminate that glitch in the system in what Bill Weaver says is akin to a 1948 "service bulletin".

So there you have the mystery of the "three microswitches in each wheel well" Swifts solved. Right? Did I sum it up correctly? Maybe... If not, Monty, Bill, Ed, and/or Charlie will surely let me know and I’ll share it with the rest of you.

LANDING GEAR PUMP CYCLES... (FEB 03)
Subj: Intermittant Landing Gear Pressurization
From: Wally Boeck <wboeck@ix.netcom.com>
Monty,
Wally Boeck here. I've got an annoyance item - that is it is now and I don't want it to grow. In flight with the gear up, at about four or five minute intervals my hydraulic pump cycles on for a moment. I'm reasonably certain that the right main is dropping down just enough for the up microswitch to open and cause the repressurization. I can't confirm that with Maximus on jacks but ... The challenge is doubly annoying since my last landing gear overhaul work was on the right actuator - a minor but annoying leak aroundthe back, spar side of the center shaft demanded new o-rings, felt and all. That gives me cause to wonder if I did anything poorly and that's always possible given the blind nature of the center shaft's reassembly. Any thoughts before I tear into the actuator again? If my challenge were to be caused by a leaking o-ring on the actuator piston, can the o-ring be changed with outa full disassembly? Maximus' (#118 N80715) caretaker

Wally
That problem is usually associated with the flaps -- either the seal in the flap cylinder is leaking internally or the brass plates in the hydraulic package are leaking internally. Having said that, it is possible that when you reassembled the gear actuator you got the gear off one tooth. This would cause a mis-rig of the gear and the possibility of the gear coming off the micro switch. Put the airplane on jacks and let it sit for a while, even pull down on the gear. If the micro switch clicks and the pump runs, you have found the problem. -- Jim

Jim,
Thanks for the feedback. If I did get the gear piston reassembled one tooth off, can that be corrected just by pulling the piston cover plate and realigning the piston and tooth assembly within the gear actuator?

Wally
Well yes, and no. You can take out the 4 screws and remove that cap and then with the landing gear linkage disconnected you can get the piston out, then you can try to reindex the rack with the gear. From old memory, it seems that maybe that only works on one side. It's probably easier just to pull the actuator. When I do the actuator on a "new" (to me) Swift I always centerpunch the rack & gear so I get them back together the way they were. -- Jim

RICK SCOTT HAS ANOTHER THEORY RE: WALLY’S DROOPING GEAR DEAL... (MAR 03)
From: Rick Scott <swiftbird4@hotmail.com>
To: arbeau@napanet.net
Hi Denis,
A reply to Wally's problem. I had the same problem quite some time ago, the root of the problem turned out to be the emergency pull down cable was slightly out of adjust. And I mean VERY slightly!!! It wouldn't quite let the gear over center so it would droop slightly inflight and the pump would cycle. Mine just started doing it one day with no prior trouble. I rerigged the cable and have never had a problem since. Put the aircraft on jacks, retract the gear. Reach in the well and pull down on the wheels one at a time, if you hold it for a second the pump will probably cycle. If the cable is set up too tight and you have the master off you will be able to pull the gear down and it will fall part way out..... Time to readjust the cable tension. -- Rick.

LANDING GEAR TROUBLE... (MAR 03)
Subj: N2435B
From: Mark Sorensons <marksorensons@aol.com>
Hi Jim,
Understand that we have near sister ships. I have been following the newsletters and information that you have been helping other with over the past 8 mo since I have acquired my swift. It sure is a blast to fly. However I have noticed something I wanted to get your opinion on. First of all 2435B is a completely stock 145 down to the old bench seats. Anyway I was on approach to land with the gear down and decided to go around and change landing direction. So I selected the gear to UP and the gear retracted very slowly. I noticed that the left gear didn't make it all the way up in to the wheel well. I then selected gear down and nothing. Remembering the old flap up an down trick I got the green light and decided to land. Now I want to trouble shoot. I suspect that it may be the gear CB on the panel. But it didn't trip in flight. I say this because if you trip it manually on the ground it is very difficult to re-engage. If it is the Gear CB wouldn't that affect the Hyd. Motor for the flaps? Or is that CB in line with the Gear selector and if the CB is bad then no power goes to the selector to run the gear. If that is so, can you give me a brief explanation on how the flap actuator can provide power to the gear selector and know whether to lower or raise the gear? Thanks Jim!

Mark
Did you reset that red circuit breaker? It sure sounds to me like it popped. If the air loads are too high on the gear, such as on a go-around, that is the classic situation for when the c/b pops. Remember, those old circuit breakers are now over 50 years old and they might not function exactly the way they are supposed to. (it may open without popping all the way out) The flap circuit has no relay, only the 30A c/b switch on the panel. If the system is pressurized whatever hydraulic ports are open in the selector will receive pressure. Thus you can lower the gear by repeatedly cycling the flaps. -- Jim

LANDING GEAR TROUBLE PART DEUX... (MAR 03)
Subj: N2435B
From: Mark Sorensons <marksorensons@aol.com>
Jim,
I totally forgot about the red circuit breaker! I remember have been briefed on that from Wayne when I bought the airplane. It is out of the way and recessed so I just missed that completely. You probably think I should attend Swift recurrent training after forgetting about that. Anyway, next question. Is there something available as far as a conversion for giving my swift a control for intermediate flap position? I live on a grass strip and have used the technique of lowering the flaps half way with the stock flap selector the moving the switch to the middle position to close the hyd port. But the hyd pump still runs and that has got to put a strain on the system if that technique is used over an over. I like the flaps when I am flying near gross weight but its not necessary when I am by myself. By the way, did I tell you how much fun this plane is? Best Regards, Mark Sorenson 678-GO-FLY

Mark
There is available a switch to run the flaps to an intermediate position. Call Swift Parts. Having the motor run all that time sounds like the worst idea I heard recently! I like full flaps or nothing. Just my personal preference. I'm glad you like the Swift, I sure like mine, but due to health problems I don't enjoy it like I used to. -- Jim

SLOW TO RETRACT PROBLEM SOLVED... (APRIL 03)
From: Swiftflier@aol.com
Subject: Re: April #3 GTS Internet Update
Just wanted to tell everyone that my "slow to retract" landing gear problem is solved! Jim Thomason reckoned that one of my gear actuators was by-passing, and even though there were no leaks or outside discrepancies in either gear well, the actuators were suspect to him. Well, he was correct... and after he overhauled both actuators the landing gear problem is solved.
Thanks, Bill Tiley (N131W).

GOODY GOT HIS LANDING GEAR PROBLEM FIXED... (JUNE 03)
Subj: Gear
From: Goody Goodrich <ogoodyg@netex.quik.com>
Jim: To catch you up on my gear problem and hopefully help some other people why might have similar problems. When I would retract the gear the left gear would go up and lock and then the hydraulic pump would stop before the right gear was completely up and locked. All indication was a bad mico-switch on the uplock side of the right gear. A new mico-switch did not solve the problem and finally after checking everything else, I removed the down lock mico switch. The gear had been going down and locking as neat as could be, and so I had not thought of doing anything to that mico-switch. There are four {4} wires on this mico-sw. and there was bare wire showing on three of the four connectors. I put on four new connectors and then make a new wire to run between the two mico-sw. - - there is one common wire. Everything back togather and it works like a charm..... So, as Jim told me on a message last nite - - you have a wiring problem in your right gear. How true and thanks again Jim for saving another Swift Caretaker..... Goody

Goody
Thanks for the update on your gear problem. I knew it would be something like that. I just got finished with a gear problem myself. I am restoring N2460B, the last Swift built. Previous owners had not been able to solve a gear problem and had installed a hand pump. Neither the gear or flaps would work with the electric pump. Mark Holliday flew the airplane up here from Texas a few years ago and had to pump the gear up and down by hand. Ditto the flaps. If one thing is wrong, that's bad enough but this critter had EVERYTHING screwed up! The gear motor, a Honda starter, was burned out. I replaced the motor. Still no action. I changed a some wiring. Then I had flaps but no gear. Eventually, Mick Supina found a bad switch at the selector behind the instrument panel. Then there were more bad wires. Finally, the gear came up on its own! But the motor would not shut off. Adjusting the left up microswitch fixed that. The gear would just barely make it up, so we loosened the hydraulic package from the firewall and raised the hydraulic pressure about 1/2 a turn. Everything works now, but the stock motor may not be good enough when we get flying. We'll cross that bridge later! -- Jim

GEAR PROBLEM... (AUG 03)
From: Jim Renfrow
Subject: Gear Problem
Here is a bit more info on 270's gear. Never a problem in five years 'til now. First indication was failure to fully retract on climbout with speed 80 or less. Pump continued to attempt to complete cycle, but at least one up limit switch not engaged. Checked fluid level, serviced to full and flew again, same result. Both gear move as normal but at least one fails to make up limit switch, gets within about one inch of being up. Extension is totally normal. Put acft on jacks. Ran several retraction cycles, checked free play, lubed trunion fittings, swung manually to check freedom of movement, checked switch actuation, checked adjustments per AD's. All functions on jacks are normal, gear fully retracts and all indications (lights) normal, pump shuts off when last up limit switch met. While on jacks, the only abnormal event noted was a pretty good size puddle of hydraulic fluid accumulation on the hangar floor at mid-ship location. Only thing I can think of there is the flap actuator. It must have developed a seal problem and during gear retraction is porting fluid and probably pressure overboard. I'm wondering it this loss of system pressure might be sufficient to rob the gear of enough pressure so that the retraction cycle is incomplete. What are your thoughts on this, any ideas? Have not heard of this exact scenario being discussed. Regards, Jim and Kay

Reading what you have experienced two things are obvious: (1) You have a drop in system hydraulic pressure. (2) You have a hydraulic leak. Just as a guess, I would look first at the hydraulic lines where they go through the firewall. They are clamped in a phenolic block which can be removed by taking out four AN3 bolts. Inspect the lines for wear and/or pinholes. While the first belly panel is removed also check all the "B" nuts for leaks. -- Jim

Texas Swifter Ed Lloyd, who was the original recipient of Jim Renfrow’s email and who forwarded it to Jim Montague, wrote...
Obviously this sheds a whole new perspective on things. I would pull the belly panel and with the airplane on jacks, have Kay or someone actuate the gear to the up position while you observe the hydraulic flap actuator and lines in that area. Could be a simple thing like a reseal of the flap actuator or a loose 'B' nut or a ruptured line. During the gear retraction cycle there should be no pressure in the flap hydraulic system.......... unless the flaps are actuated at the same time. Sort of like the reverse of the emergency gear lowering procedure when the gear handle is down and you actuate the flaps up and down to get the gear down. The flap selector valve in the power pack would have to be "open" to get pressure going to the flaps. Cheers... Ed

Editor says... The hydraulic leak is a concern. However, if the leak ain’t that bad... About 20 years ago I had the same retract problem with my Swift. Buzz Winslow and I checked EVERYTHING just like you described on yours and it all checked out. I even remember putting in a new battery. Then, during yet another retract on the jacks Buzz put his finger on one of the tires and stopped all movement, bogging down the motor until a breaker popped. He then went to the back of his hangar, fished around in a box of "junk" for a couple of minutes, appeared with another stock gear motor, installed it on the pump, and when we tried the retract on jacks again Buzz couldn't stop the gear even with both hands on the tire. I ended up using that motor about 15 years until it wore out. Try another gear motor... that may be the deal... Denis

STEVE WILSON. GUEST ANSWER MAN... (OCT 03)
Subject: Swift Gear
From: Richard Fox <Foxaero4@wmconnect.com>
Hi Steve ! I just bought a 1946 Swift from Rick Matson N90356. I have a question on the gear sys. As most people do. I am an IA and have studied the wire dia. several times in the air, in smooth air, the amber light has flashed on and off several times. I thought this meant the power pack was running but the amp meter didn't seem to show a draw. Also it happened once on the ground at start up. Also once and only once after takeoff I put the gear sw. to the up position and nothing happened. I checked the CB and was ok on the second attempt it worked ok. I haven’t flown it since but I lubed and checked all four micro. sw. Am I on the right track or what can you advise. Also do you know where i can buy new up and down lock switches. Thanks Richard Fox

Richard... I am forwarding this e-mail to Denis Arbeau and maybe he will put you on the GTS E-mail List. The cycling of the yellow light is exactly as you say, the power-pack is running when the light is on. The most likely thing to cause this is the flap bleeding down a bit. It can also be caused by one of the main landing gear that is not over-center bleeding down also. The fact that the light comes on for only a second or so, might not be enough to excite the ammeter, especially if the airplane is equipped with an alternator. The gear and flap switches behind the panel can be replaced. I thought Swift Parts had some, but have not bought any recently, so not sure. They are relatively inexpensive considering the usual price of airplane stuff. I'd start there especially if the problem repeats itself. If you don't have them already, you should purchase all the books for the Swift sold by Swift Parts. I think they have a package price for all of them. The problems you talk about are covered in the one entitled "Maintenance and Operation Information for the Swift." It is often referred to as the "Blue Book." Glad to hear you have a Swift and I know you will enjoy it. Don't hesitate to ask questions. That's how we all learn... Steve Wilson

BREAKER POPS DURING GEAR CYCLE... (OCT 03)
Subj: Gear retraction
From: Alain de Valence <alaindevalence@free.fr>
Dear Jim,
I am the caretaker of the N 80903 in France, she remained on the ground for 2 months, and when I flew her again I had the gear partialy up (about 45°), the breaker popped up after a while (45 sec to one minute) I checked the hydraulic fluid level, the battery charge and look for any leak on gear and flap actuators. Everything was right. Even on jacks I tried again and had the same problem. The pump runs well till the breaker pops up. I suspect some air in the circuit , but I don't know how to bleed it. The hydraulic manual I have from Swift foundation shows an hydraulic pump which is not exactly the same I have on the plane. Can you help me to fix it? Thank you. Swiftly, Alain

Alain
If you have the original hydraulic pump motor it is not too unusual for it to fail to operate well. You might try to disassemble it, clean it and turn the armature commutator and replace the brushes if they are worn. Many Swifts have newer 12 volt motors of similar size adapted, such as a Honda motorcycle starter motor. Here in the US Merlyn products offers an STCed replacement. The system is self bleeding, two or three cycles of jacks should clear out any air. -- Jim