LANDING GEAR
HYDRUALIC PUMP MOTOR...
GEAR PUMP
From: Steve Roth (stevenroth@aol.com)
When I used the Adel motor and used flaps, the motor would "blip" every
fewseconds and the gear motor light would illuminate for a brief instant.
What would cause that?
Steve,
That is a common thing, not related to the type of motor. The gear is
probably falling off the microswitch, due to a too-tight crankdown cable
or an internal hydraulic leak in the power pack. What is happening, the
microswitch is calling for the motor to run, which it does, it runs for
an instant and shuts off nomally. Didn't Steve have to crank his gear
down recently? He may not have cranked it back competely afterward. I
would suggest he have a knowlegable Swift mechanic run the gear on jacks
and check all the adjustments. If it cranks down ok, he may want to back
off slightly on the tension of the pull down cable. If the power pack
is leaking internally, Joe Ranson is the only person I know who is good
at lapping the brass plates in there. -- Jim
Jim,
It does not do it (the gear motor light blip occasionally) until I put
the flaps down -- then it starts. -- Steve
Steve,
Oh, well thats different. I thought it happened in cruise flight. If it
happens AFTER you put the flaps down, the selector in the power pack is
leaking slightly internally, allowing the flaps to retract enough to activate
the micro switch. I think I would just live with that. -- Jim
"RSO" NEEDS LANDING GEAR HELP... (5399)
From: "T.Fred Lipscomb" <tfredlip@compuserve.com>
Subject: HYD Motor Pump
Jim:
I have had the Hyd. Pump Circuit/Breaker pop on me three different times
when selecting the gear, twice in the down position, and once when selecting
up position. Something is overheating this C/B and causing it to pop.
( RSO ) Rookie Swift Operator. HELP !! --- T. Fred Lipscomb 2412B
Fred:
Is that the little red button? Possibly it at 50 years of age is tired
and needs replacement. I used to work for NWA and could take various C/B
switches in to work and have the electicians check them out. Many times
a so-called 30 amp C/B would pop at 20 amps, but more often, it took 100
amps! Has any work been done on the system recently? The brushes in the
hyd. motor may be nearing the end of their useful life. As I recall, N2412B
had a 20 hp Mercury Outboard starter motor for a hyd motor. Please write
again and let me know more detail, like is it the C/B switch or the red
button. -- Jim
Jim:
You are right, 2412B does have a 20 hp Mercury Outboard starter motor
for a hyd. motor. It is the actual C/B that is poping not the red gear
switch, it works fine. Pushed C/B in and gear retracted. Is there an easy
way to check the brushes in the hyd. motor? Thanks: T. Fred
Fred,
It could be several things, but I would first suspect the motor. The brushes
are easy to check . If memory serves, the top of the motor comes off and
you can eyeball the brushes. The relay might be bad also, the relay is
inexpensive, get an "intermittent" one if you think it might need replacing.
So it's the c/b switch that pops? I would still suspect it may be opening
up at low amperage, the gear c/b switch is only a 5 amp. These are getting
a little harder to find, but I think they have them at Athens and a major
electrical outlet might still stock them - the c/b's and micro switches
were used in about a gazillion things back in the '40's and '50's. You
say the red gear switch. That still leaves me a little confused. There
is a red button on the rt. side of the panel. That is a hyd. circuit breaker.
Then there is the landing gear 5 amp c/b switch. (like a black household
on/off switch; radio - landing gear - flaps - gen - inst lights - pos
lights, they look alike, but have different amp ratings) The red button
is a 30 amp c/b. Does 12B still have the original type c/b's? -- Jim
Monty:
Took the Hyd. Motor off today, and you were right. Actually the brushes
themselves were ok, but there was so much carbon built up that I don't
see how any electricity was conducted. Cleaned armature, brushes, etc.,
with emory cloth and gas, and put grease on each end of shaft. Put it
back together, reinstalled it, and flaps work great. T. Fred
GEAR MOTOR QUESTION... (6499)
From: Fred Lipscomb <tfredlip@compuserve.com>
Subj: Hyd. Motor Pump
Monty !
I am back . Last time we talked, was about my Hyd. Motor Pump C/B popping
during gear retract and extension. Checked Hyd. Motor pump Brushes, they
are ok. Up on jacks, Motor pump pulling 81amps during retract, and 41amps
during flap actuation. Had Motor Pump checked today, and they said motor
looked new to them and wanted to know if I would sell it. The only thing
I can come up with is maybe in the Hyd pump itself there must be A pressure
relief valve that is sticking, and that is what is causing this motor
to Work so hard. Any suggestions? Thanks: T. Fred Lipscomb (2412B)
Fred,
81 amps is too much. 40 amps on retraction, and half that on extension
are more like it. Does your gear retract/extend real quickly? I suspect
it may be operating at way to high a pressure. Consult the Cummins Hydraulic
manual. The pressure should be 425 PSI. After taking the unit loose on
the firewall, there is an adjustment screw with a check nut on it on the
back. The nut and screw are usually flush, if the screw is turned way
in, that's your first clue the pressure will be too high. The little hydraulic
pump will put out 2000 PSI if the adjusting screw is turned all the way
in. Anything over 600 lbs runs a risk of shearing the woodruff keys in
the gear actuators. Do you have all the books pertaining to the Swift?
You especially need the Cummins Hydraulic Manual. -- Jim
REMEMBER THAT "81 AMP GEAR MOTOR"
FROM LAST ISSUE??? (6599)
From: Monty747@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hyd. Motor Pump
Fred,
I nmy previous reply I more-or-less assumed whoever looked at your motor
eliminated the possibility of an electrical fault. Is that correct? If
the motor has a problem, like the armature dragging on the fields, or
a bad bearing, it will also draw high amperage. Did you manage to check
the system pressure? -- Jim
LANDING GEAR TROUBLE... (6699)
Subject: Gear Trouble
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
How's it going? Flew the Swift today and it broke. Landing gear comes
part way up and then pops the 30 amp breaker (round one). Then when I
reset the breaker, the gear finishes its short distance remaining upward
with a thud. The thud almost sounds like it got hung up on something and
is finally going by the obstacle, but it might be that the gear is so
close to being home, it finishes the trip very fast with a thud. The gear
goes down OK and the flaps work great. Today was a hot day and I was going
around the pattern doing continuous takeoffs and landings. When I stopped
to check out the wheel wells for obstructions (15 - 20 minutes) the next
takeoff gear up was OK, but then the one right after that popped the breaker
again.
Bob,
I can give you some general hints, but I don't know enough about your
airplane to pinpoint anything. What kind of gear motor do you have? If
it's the stock gear motor what you experienced is not all that unusual.
The first thing you need to do is put the airplane up on jacks and run
the gear. Check out that "thud". To do thorough grease job on a Swift
landing gear system, the linkage should be uncotterkeyed and dismantled
every 100 hours. That's the only way you can get grease on the bushings.
Check for wear and mis-adjustment per AD 47-06-01 and 51-11-04. I have
found if the 30 Amp. c/b button pops, many times the gear relay has arced
and is causing excess current draw. Also check the brushes in the gear
motor. Years ago, with a stock gear motor, I found if I exceeded 80 mph
on climb before the gear was up it would pop the c/b every time. Doing
touch and goes, on about the 3rd takeoff it would pop at 70 mph. -- Jim
(Editor's note: A general advisory
for what it is worth... You can save wear and tear on the gear motor when
doing multiple touch and gos if you just leave the landing gear down.
To keep up with procedure, however, simulate the retraction and extension
actions with a verbal callout and/or some other kind of deliberate action.)
LANDING GEAR TROUBLE PART 2...
Jim,
Thanks for the helpful hints. I do have the original gear motor. I plan
on checking the brushes. Where would I find the gear relay? -- Bob Runge
Bob,
The relay is on the firewall a few inches from the gear motor. Follow
the wire from the motor. There are several types, the earliest is in an
aluminum "box", the next style was a GE (I think) plastic cased unit with
several terminal studs, and most Swifts have a modern intermittent relay
such as listed in Aircraft Spruce, p/n 22735 ($13.95) If you have either
of the original 53 year old types I suggest you replace it.
The brushes for the gear motor are
obtainable from any major electric motor supply house, or Swift Parts
may have them. Usually, they must be removed and cleaned at least once
a year. The motor may require disassembly and cleaning if it hasn't been
done for a while. The hydraulic reservoir should not be overfilled, the
oil will get up in the motor and on the brushes and armature and cause
problems. When Merlyn Products comes out with their new STC'ed gear motor,
your best move would be to get one! -- Jim
THE PRESSURE IS ON! (LANDING GEAR
MOTOR PART 3...)
Jim,
I have talked with a guy who used to own a Swift and he put in a Honda
starter motor. He said that the motor doubled the pressure and that the
gear came up in about 4 seconds at any speed, above or below 90. This
would obviously require an FAA field approval???? (8 more months!!) --
Bob Runge
Bob,
No it won't double the pressure! The pressure should be 425 psi no matter
what motor is turning the pump. Any pressure above 500-600 lbs. runs the
risk of shearing the woodruff keys in the gear actuators. A 4 second gear
is probably running in that range. The advantage to a Honda motorcycle
starter motor is reliability and a little more power than the stock unit.
I have gotten them field approved in years gone by, but today I think
you can forget about that! Write Suzanne Evans at Merlyn Products and
encourage them to get their new STC'ed gear motor on the market! -- Jim
(Editor's note: Thanks Jim... It's
nice to keep Suzanne Evans aware that we haven't forgotten about that
new gear motor STC Merlyn is working on!!!)
STOCK? THAT'S NOT STOCK...
(7399)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Motor Brushes
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Jim,
I have never dealt with anything as miserable as the screws for the hydraulic
motor brushes. I'm assuming that these are the 4 large phillips flatheads
that surround the center of the motor. I could not get any of them to
budge. It is almost like they are cast into the case for decoration. I
even ran a knife around the edge thinking that paint might be holding
them tight. No go. Are they left had thread? I also tried turning them
the other way.
Bob:
Boy am I puzzled! I thought you had a stock motor. The stock Swift hydraulic
motor has two large phenolic buttons that screw out and the brushes are
then easily pulled out. It sounds to me like you are trying to remove
the field coil screws of some kind of starter motor. That is not a Swift
motor! Assuming it's a starter motor of some sort, the motor should be
on a bench and one end removed. The brushes should then be visible. I
suggest taking it to an electric motor shop. -- Jim
AND YOU THOUGHT WE WERE DONE WITH
THE GEAR MOTOR STUFF???
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Jim:
To say that I'm a little red in the face with embarrassment would be an
understatement. Not having a picture of the original Swift motor, I naturally
assumed I had the original. Nothing in the logs indicates otherwise. (so
much for legalities)
This motor is mounted to the reservoir
via a plate. It is mounted to the plate via a couple of threaded rods
that go down the side of the motor opposite each other, through a cap
(on top of the motor) that has casted threaded holes on its sides and
down through the same type of casted, threaded holes on a cap on the bottom,
then going into the mounting plate. Guess I hope Merlyn hurries with their
new STC motor. -- Bob Runge
Bob:
Just from your description, I would guess it's a Honda Motorcycle starter
adapted to the Swift. It's probably a lot better than an original motor!
Unfortunately, it's not exactly legal either. Forget getting a field approval
in 1999, unless your FSDO is a lot easier going than most, which I gather
they are not. The good news is, the Honda starters only need the brushes
cleaned about every 25 years! -- Jim
PS - I had one field approved in
the '70's and I proved the current draw will not over draw the wiring,
so don't worry, be happy. -- Jim
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR QUESTION...
(050200)
Subject: Hydraulic Pump Motor
From: Phil Howell <POPPAPOU@aol.com>
Hi Jim: I recently purchased N3313K. This is a 210 Swift with a 24 volt
system, well mostly that is. In checking the hydraulic pump motor I noticed
it is an ADEL rated at 12 volts and 35 amps. It is working fine and looks
almost new. Question: Is this standard practice when switching to a 24
volt system? I know there is a 24 to 12 volt reducing unit in the a/c,
but I believe it is only for less power hungry items. What is the expected
life of a 12 volt motor on a diet of 24 volts? As a new Swift owner, I
really appreciate your advice and technical support. Many thanks, Phil
Howell
Phil,
To answer your question, (kind of) I'm not sure what the life of that
little motor on 24V would be. That Adel motor is not very long lived under
any circumstance, so I wouldn't expect it to last real long on 24V. Maybe
it will last longer on 24V! I have no experience running the Adel motor
on 24V.If you have any problems with the motor, write me back, I may be
able to help. -- Jim
FASTER, FASTER, FASTER!!!
(060700)
Subj: Hydraulic pump motor
From: Lew Fisher <LewF@webtv.net>
Is there a pump motor that would make the landing gear go up faster? I've
seen references to a Montague motor, a Pesco hydraulic pump, and another
motor the name of which I can't remember right now. Is it a matter of
increasing the hydraulic pressure? What should a nominal time be for the
gear to come up? I've wondered about this for the 46 years I've owned
my Swift but now that my daughter is flying the airplane, I thought it
was time to ask. Lew Fisher
Lew,
The motor should raise the gear in 6 or 7 seconds. A faster gear is a
function of hydraulic pressure. Raising the pressure above the book figure
of 425 -450 psi is not a good idea, due to the possibility of shearing
the Woodruff keys in the gear actuators. The stock little motor will "lug
down" in rpm, and not allow full hydraulic pressure. I believe Merlyn
has their new STC'ed motor available now, which I believe would be a worthwhile
investment. The stock motor is too small and has several other design
deficiencies. It has an inadequate seal, which allows fluid to work its
way up in to the motor. Also, it has carbon brushes. I found a motor which
worked very well and bolted right on to a Stock Adel Hyd. Package top.
I only had a very limited supply of these and they are all gone, I never
advertised these motors because I didn't want to interfere with Merlyn
and their STC'ed motor program. Many motors have been adapted over the
years, but only Merlyn has obtained an STC, which I applaud, and recommend.
-- Jim
LOTS OF INFORMATION ON
THE GTS HOMEPAGE... (060700)
Subj: Re: Hydraulic pump motor
From: LewF@webtv.net (Lewis Fisher)
Jim: Thank you so much for your response to my questions. How do I get
in touch with Merlyn? -- Lew Fisher
http://www.merlynproducts.com
LANDING GEAR MOTOR BRUSHES...
(070400)
Subj: Motor Brushes
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Dear Jim, Two quick questions. 1. Would you know the part number for the
brushes on a "Zito" motor? 2. Is there an easier way than trial and error
to set the Gear Warning Light micro switch? Also, my cowl latches
have been working with no trouble. Did you get the blurb that I sent some
time back? Regards, Dick Aaron, N2405B
Dick,
Joe Zito used several different motors over the years. I would suggest
you remove the brushes and take them to an electric motor supply place
and try and find some that match. I had a Honda motorcycle starter on
one Swift and needed brushes. I went to a Honda dealer and asked for some
brushes. The first thing the parts guy wanted to know of course was for
what model, which I didn't know. I showed him the old brushes, he growled
a little but brought out several sets of brushes one of which was the
right type. Set the switch so it "clicks" just before the throttle closes.
I think you want it to activate the circuit at about 18" MP. Yes, I got
what you sent, but really don't know what to tell you. Some guys have
adapted "suitcase" latches. Others have adapted an Airloc quick fastener,
but I have not done that so I can't tell how to do it. -- Jim
GEAR MOTOR OPTIONS... (090300)
Subj: Swift hyd power pack
From: Alan O'Gorman <psteel@iafrica.com>
Jim, Denis Arbeau has suggested I contact you , I am in the process
of purchasing a 46 swift 145 but cannot take delivery until the MPI is
signed out , this can`t happen because the gear don't work . The original
pump motor is shot and not up to the job . The outfit I'm dealing with
have tried adapting a unit from a C 210 without success , and have now
fitted a gear motor from a Seneca which they tell me works perfectly however
there is now a damaged linkage which has to be replaced My questions are
, Does it sound OK to use the Seneca gear motor. Is it possible that the
use of that motor has damaged the linkage. Is there any chance of obtaining
a reliable motor from you or any other source. Do you have any idea how
long it will be before the Merlyn motor is approved ( I have mailed Merlyn
with the same question ) Are spare undercart parts available, (They are
having a new linkage made because apparently a spare can't be obtained
) Unfortunately I live a long way from the AMO and haven't been able to
get there to see exactly what's happening , can't even tell you exactly
which linkage is damaged . Many thanks, Alan O`Gorman, Cato Ridge, South
Africa
Alan,
The "linkage" between the motor and the hydraulic pump is a simple piece
of tubing with the correct ID and a couple of slots for the drive pins.
Any suitably sized 12V motor can be adapted if it turns the right direction.
Merlyn products in the US now has available an STC'ed motor, but it sounds
like your problem right now is not with the motor itself. The coupling
is something any competent aircraft mechanic should be able to fabricate
using common sense. Regarding the "new linkage"... Do you mean the gear
linkage? Or the coupling between the motor and the hydraulic pump? The
motor itself should not damage anything. The hydraulic pressure should
be 425 psi. I believe Merlyn has their motor approved and available now.
Contact the Swift Parts Co in Athens, TN USA re: availability of any landing
gear linkage parts. I believe they have a supply of just about everything
right now. The president of the Swift Association, Mr. Charlie Nelson,
is not the parts man, but you could try emailing him at: <Swiftlychs@aol.com>
-- Jim
MONTY SAYS "BUY THE MERLYN
GEAR MOTOR"... (100100)
Subject: Merlyn Gear Motor
If ANYONE still has the original Adel motor I would encourage them to
replace it with the Merlyn motor. The original motor will always be a
source of trouble. Also, there are numerous "bogus" - non-approved - motors
installed on some Swifts. This is a chance to clean up your paperwork
with an FAA approved part.
(Editor's note: To order your gear motor and/or get details on all the
items mentioned above you can contact Suzanne Evans at Merlyn Products
via email at: <merprod@worldnet.att.net>. Or you can call: (509)
838-7500 And you can go visit the Merlyn Products website on the internet
at : http://www.merlynproducts.com
BRUSH-OFF... (110100)
Subj: Hydraulic Motor Brushes
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Jim, I've been able to locate some brushes for my hydraulic motor from
a Honda dealer (their p/n 31201-216-005). They're carbon, but cost $40
per set. A local starter shop had ones that fit for $10 a set; however,
they look like they're made of copper or bronze. The fellow in the shop
told me that they're impregnated with graphite and work as well as graphite
ones. Are these OK to use? Thanks. Regards, Dick N2405B
Dick, In my experience, the metallic
brushes are superior to the carbon ones. I would welcome comment by a
real electric motor expert. -- Jim
HYDRAULIC POWER PACK OVERHAUL...(030401)
Subj: Hydraulic Power Pack Overhaul
From: jdicker@sprynet.com
Hi Jim,
Hope the weather in Lake Elmo is being kind to you. I have a couple of
questions on overhaul of the hydraulic power pack for the Swift. Firstly,
do you know of anyone who overhauls these units now that Joe is no longer
with Swift Parts? Secondly, if I have to do it myself any tips that you
can give would be greatly appreciated. I have read the Cummings Hydraulic
Manual but it seams to leave some things unsaid. For example how do you
know if the seal plates need dressing and how do you do this if its necessary?
Are there any traps to watch out for? Thanks for your help. Best regards.
Alan
Alan
The weather here is terrible! Today we got almost a foot of snow. I should
have gone south for the winter! No, I don't know if anyone is doing those
hydraulic packages these days. I have done it, but I don't claim to be
good at it! If you try it, work on a clean bench and have a clean floor
in the shop. (It's much easier to find small parts and check balls that
way!) A couple of small screwdrivers and dental picks are handy tools
for working on the power pack. I would suggest you remove the selectors
one at a time. That way, if (when) you get confused you can refer to the
other one. Note the order of disassembly, making notes if you like. Be
sure to reassemble everything in the reverse order. Note the small drilled
hole which must be inboard when reassembled. To remove the brass plates
depends on why you are working on the unit. If you are just replacing
"O" rings because of leakage, don't mess with them. If the system
has internal leakage, it may be necessary to take them out and lap them
on a flat plate. If the plates are scored, they need attention Are there
any traps? Yep! Several times I have overhauled these units and they were
worse after I had worked on them! After doing the unit again, or maybe
a third time I finally got it right. Good luck! -- Jim
TROUBLESHOOTING SLOW RETRACTION PROBLEMS... (050101)
From: Bill Walker <WmDWPC@aol.com>
Hi Jim
Been reading about the slow retraction problem some guys are having. A
few years ago (we wont go into that) I had a problem with N80799 and I
worked on it for a couple of months, doing all of the things that you
mentioned in your replies., and nothing worked. I could do the retraction
on the jacks and it was fine, take off and it was fine as long as I kept
the airspeed below 85 mph. THEN, I flew over to New Braunfels Airport
for a cup of coffee and b.s. and when I took off to go home or somewhere
else. It would not come up until I went negative, once I set off the ELT.
After running the battery down on the aircraft and in my pickup, I installed
a new battery in the aircraft and still the same , fast on jacks slow
or no in the air. I did all of your suggestions, still no work right.
FINALLY, I took off the whole pump assembly and cleaned it thoroughly
outside, drained it and flushed it with varisol ( I believe that is the
right name, it was sold by ESSO - EXXON -- a solvent) then I filled a
pan with the solvent and disassembled the whole unit under the clean fluid
and as I took the pressure regulator for the gear out a very small piece
of gasket material floated out. It seems that the spring pressure would
compress the piece of gasket material after sitting overnight or for a
period of time and it would hold the pressure until the pressure valve
was opened and the gasket material would swell enough to keep the pump
from developing full pressure. Anyway, the story is, that it worked fine
after that. -- Bill Walker
GEAR MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING... (060201)
Subj: Gear and flap retraction in 78311
From:Mark & Rhonda Oltjenbruns <moltjenb@bellsouth.net>
Hi Jim ,
I out to go flying this morning and I have a slight drop in my flap actuator.
Which is next on my list , but instead of the flaps popping right up they
didn't come up . I turn off the master flap switch and started the motor
. The flaps came right up after I reenergized the master flap switch they
came up a little slower than normal . Did my runups taxied for takeoff
all normal ,but the gear at 75 didn't want to retract . I came back and
landed check the reservoir added a little fluid . Tried to lower the flaps
nothing happened. Started the engine still nothing happened. I guess all
my 25 hours dual took its toll on my gear / flap motor. I checked the
relay / solenoid power to both sides when trying to lower the flaps but
still nothing happened. The motor has Mitsuba 8N-228 , 12V 0.6kw on it
. Does this sound like the Honda motor ? It sounds like the motor has
given up the ghost . Can I just change the brushes or should I assume
that the motor needs replacing and get a gear motor from Merlyn Products
? Swift 78311 is a great plane the more I fly more I like the Swift .
Thanks , Mark
Mark
It COULD be the motor, but there are things to check first. Check if power
is getting to the motor. If neither the gear or flaps work that pretty
well leaves out the gear relay because the relay isn't used for the flaps.
Check the red button circuit breaker and cycle the gear and flap circuit
breakers. Remember, these items might be 50 years old and may need replacing.
When I worked for NWA I took a handful of circuit breakers into work and
had the electricians check them. Regardless of rating, they were all over
the place as to when they would "pop". Like a 5A circuit breaker
would take 25 amps to "pop" it. Or a 30A circuit breaker might
"pop" at 25 amps. Having said all that, if the motor operated
slowly and then not at all, it probably is the motor. I don't know if
that might be a Honda motor, but whatever, it probably is "non approved".
The Merlyn motor is an STC'ed unit and reliable. If your checks indicate
the motor is at fault, I would strongly suggest you get a Merlyn motor.
-- Jim
MORE GEAR MOTOR TROUBLESHOOTING... (060201)
Subj: Gear and flap retraction in 78311
From:Mark & Rhonda Oltjenbruns <moltjenb@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the info . There is a 30amp gear only fusebreaker but no flap
breaker . The relay next to the pump resevoir/pump clicks when I try to
cycle the flaps . Does that relay only work with flaps or for gear only
. It is a little corroded . I sprayed some LPS 3 on it so I can losen
it without damaging something . I'll see if I can get a set of jacks until
I can weld up some . I looked on the site . You talk about a relay from
Spruce 111-226 for 16.95 is this the relay I need for the gear ? Also
I have two extra Adel pumps , I sent Dick an e-mail to see if they where
any good or if any can be rebuilt , but it sounds like Merlyn is the way
to go , can I expect them to be a couple hundred bucks or so ? Thanks
, Mark
Mark
There should be a 5A landing gear circuit breaker and a 30 amp flap circuit
breaker. (The flap circuit operates without a relay) There also should
be a red button circuit breaker to the right of the system circuit breakers
for the hydraulic system. Ron Williamson came up with the best relay for
the Swift landing gear. It is Granger item no. 6C028 MFG MODEL NO. 70-111224-5
Manufacturer Essex White Rodgers. That number I came up with may not be
right. I guess I should review the "Monty the Answer Man" archive
and delete any questionable info. If the relay clicks but the motor does
not run it sounds like the motor is faulty. Every Swift owner needs a
set of jacks. By Adel pumps, do you mean power packs, including the original
motors? The original motors are not much good. I don't know the present
price for a Merlyn motor, but it was $475 plus core. I guess I should
stress the value of having an STC'ed part. I am trying to get an STC right
now for a Sensenich prop and the difficulty in dealing with the FAA to
get an STC has to be experienced to be believed. The Merlyn motor will
make operating your Swift a much more enjoyable experience! -- Jim
LANDING GEAR MOTOR BRUSHES... (FEB 03)
Subj: Brushes
From: Paul Smith <smithpae@yahoo.com>
Jim,
I am in need of brushes for the hydraulic pump motor. Do you know where
I can get them? Thanks, Paul Smith
Paul
Well, it depends on what motor you have. Do you have the original GE motor?
Swift Parts has always had them. The original motor is the rounded aluminum
motor with the brushes accessible by screwing out two bakelite covers
on the side. There are two types, the 35 amp brushes are a little thicker.
If for some reason Swift Parts hasn't got them, a major electric motor
supply house, such as H A Holden in Minneapolis, MN stocks them. If you
have the Merlyn motor, contact Merlyn for parts. If you have a Honda motor,
you will have to disassemble the motor and remove the brushes and take
them to a Honda parts place and show them what you need. Ditto with any
other type of motor. If the motor type is unknown most electric motor
supply places can match up the brushes. -- Jim
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