Swift
Fuel System Page 4...
FUEL GAGE FLOAT...(040102)
Subj: fuel gage float
From: Marv Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I am trying to fix my fuel gage and yes I do have the good vent system.
It seems that the cork float is saturated with fuel and sinks. I have
the whole fuel gage assembly out of the plane but for the life of me I
cannot figure out how to get the cork off the rest of the assembly. I
want to re-varnish it so it does not soak up fuel any more. Do you know
how to remove the cork and what kind of varnish should I use on it. Varnish
is something I have just heard of before, never actually done it. I may
be able to get a new cork but it would still need sealing. Thanks Marvin
Homsley
Marv
You don't want to use varnish. Originally the floats were dipped in shellac
and allowed to dry thoroughly. Modern day stuff that would work are the
sloshing compounds made by 3M (EC776) and Fuller for fuel tanks or floats.
I haven't worked on a fuel gauge in many years, so I can't give you details
for disassembly. -- Jim
DICK ARRON’S "TWO CENTS" ON CORK FUEL GAGES...(040202)
From: "Aaron, Richard [AMSTA-AR-CCH-C]" <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Another 2¢. Maybe this will help regarding Marv Homsley's query about
the coating of cork fuel gages. This is from the auto gas STC page on
the EAA Website: (typos are as copied) Potential Attack of Varnish on
old Cork Fuel Tank Floats Cork floaundred low lead (100LL) aviation gasoline
and automobile gasoline may have higher aeromatics than 80 octane aviation
gasoline and may attack old varnish. This leads to problems of gasoline
absorption by the cork, and particles of varnish getting into the fuel
system and possibly plugging metering jets in the carburetor. If your
fuel system has been performing satisfactorily with long term use of 100LL
aviation gasoline, then it should be satisfactory with no changes using
automobile gasoline. Inspect floats and, if indicated, recoat with polyurethane
type of varnish. (Use 2-part urethane varnish such as Stits UV-550.) Regards,
Dick Aaron
DICK SHARES HIS FUEL GAGE FLOAT EXPERIENCE...(050202)
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Subject: Fuel Gage Float
Denis,
I thought that I'd relate some recent experience I had with my fuel gage
in case it might be of help to someone else. Soon after I acquired 2405B,
I tried to remove the fuel gage in order to replace the gasket, but after
about an inch of movement it was stuck on something. My first thought
was a dent in the riser tube, but an examination of the tube exterior
showed nothing. Anyway, about three weeks ago I got more aggressive and
by pulling and twisting managed to get the gage out. To my surprise, the
bottom plate had the two holes in it both closed with a bolt and nut that
were the cause of the interference. I don't know why anyone would put
these there: perhaps they thought that it would minimize sloshing and
give a steadier reading. I removed them. While cleaning things up and
examining in general, I found that one of the weights in the cork) while
not in danger of falling out, was not all that tight either. These are
like very thick brass brads and are, I guess, for standardizing cork buoyancy.
This wouldn't have been a problem if they were inserted from the top instead
of the bottom. If it did fall out, the gage indication would be higher,
so that you would think that there was more fuel than there was. By how
much, I dunno. Anyhow, as I was going to recoat the cork with urethane
varnish (in case I opt for auto gas) I pulled the weight out and gooped
the hole with varnish before replacing it. Also, I polished out some minute
nicks on the spiral and guide rods with crocus cloth and Scotch Brite
which gave the cork freer movement. Awhile back Marv Homsley asked about
a source for cork to replace the float and I just recalled once seeing
some wide-mouth glass food storage jars that had large cork stoppers.
Last point: even if it's nice and shiny, don't trust it 100%. Regards,
Dick
FUEL TOTALIZERS...(070102)
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
Subject: Fuel Totalizers
The Electronics International FP-5 and the JPI unit are both STC'ed for
the Swift. Give them a call or check their websites. Electronics International
<http://www.buy-ei.com> but I don't have JPI's website. All totalizers
on the market seem to use the same sensors/transducers. Both units are
very accurate. Hope that helps. Steve Roth
AUX TANKS...(080302)
Subj:Fuel Tanks - Again
Date:8/13/02 7:55:21 PM Central Daylight Time
From:crosses@houston.rr.com
Jim
We corresponded about fuel systems a few months ago. As you may or may
not recall, I wanted to add about an hour's worth of range, and two options
you mentioned were (1) enlarged aux tank (I have the 9 gallon variety)
and (2) belly tanks. I am wondering where I can get more information about
these two options. Are there STCs, who to contact, etc. John Cross
N2398B
John
The Temco aux tank, which was original equipment on some late Swifts,
is no longer available except used, from salvage etc. If this is what
you already have and want to enlarge it, you are on your own but I'm sure
someone, somewhere has gotten a field approval and would furnish a copy
of their 337. The belly aux tanks are STCed and are available thru Swift
Parts. The STC is held by Alterair in CA and their contact information
is on the Swift site. -- Monty
DR DON COUNSELS AUSTIN ABOUT FUEL TANK LEAKS...(090102)
From: Don Duke <Swifter@compuserve.com>
Subject: Fuel tanks
Austin,
I just read your note on GTS news - and you're probably well ahead now,
but I thought I would mention something. I had to remove my R fuel tank
2 years ago due to leak. Buzz Winslow explained to me that leaks are not
unheard of on higher time Swifts (I've put 1100hrs on mine in the past
several yrs), esp involving the R tank. Why? - he explained that with
the tank partially empty, the top vibrates, up and down, and this energy
appears to be concentrated at the aft end of the stiffening beads/creases
of the metal tank top portion. A crescent shaped area here work hardens,
then cracks. The L tank apparently is not as susceptable due to stabilizing
effect of the filler neck addition. I know you don't have a leak but it
might be worthwhile to inspect this area closely while you have that tank
out, as you've likely come to the conclusion at this point that you'd
rather not take it out again.... Don Duke N9DB Cincinnati, OH
ROOKIE SWIFTER NEEDS AUX TANK INFO...(NOV 02)
Subj: Outboard Fuel Tanks
From: Wyatt Honomichl <kingair@nvc.net>
Hi Jim: I have a quick question for you about a answer you gave a guy
about Wet Wing fuel tanks. I would like to know where you got your outboard/center
section fuel tanks. I was just given a -1B swift and i was thinking about
putting in a IO-320, and would like a little more range out of this frame.
If you have any help on this issue i would appreciate it. If you also
know an address and a cost per tank. Thanks again Wyatt Honomichl (Rookie
Swifter)
Wyatt
I have the belly tanks installed
in my Swift. These are two 4-1/2 gallon tanks that plumb in to add 9 gallons
of fuel to the total capacity. Swift Parts in Athens, TN may have them
for sale or the manufacturer, ALTURAIR in San Diego may still be
in business. Their contact information is on the Swift site. I have no
idea of the current cost. There is a field modification to eliminate the
aluminum fuel tanks and "wet wing" the center section. This
is a major job and would cost thousands of dolllars. Merlyn products of
Spokane, WA has produced outer wing aux tanks. They only produce a run
of them when they get enough orders. The price, as I recall, was between
two and three thousand dollars. Merlyns contact information is on the
Swift site. -- Jim
AUX TANKS... (JAN 03)
Subj: alturair aux tanks installation
From: Jeff Wimmer (jwimmer@fleetweather.com)
Hi Jim: I've been following the discussion of the alturair aux tanks,
and am told by Swift Parts that they have some available. My question
is about how involved the installation is? As I've just had my Swift painted,
it would be a shame if they had to peel off the belly skin.....are these
just installed thru the removable belly plate, or how much sheet metal
work is involved? Sure would be nice to have a little extra fuel capacity
with that big engine sucking up the gas, and to NOT lose what little luggage
capacity is available. Thanks for any info! Regards, Jeff Wimmer
Jeff
I have the belly tanks in my Swift but I did not install them. There is
no change to the selector valve. The aux tanks become a part of the main
tanks in effect. No switching tanks etc. The
moment remains approximately
the same for weight and balance purposes. You don't have to remove any
skin, they go in thru the aft belly access panel. What is hard is working
in the restricted area with little room. Some mechanics are better at
this than others. If you or your mechanic are willing to take on such
a project, good luck! Remember, it's been done before and can be done
again! -- Jim
JUST ONE OF 1000 USES FOR VASELINE... (JAN 03)
Subject: Re: Fule-Proof Lubricant
From: Steve Roth <Swift97B@aol.com>
Are you guys aware of a "grease" which is fuel proof? I have
Fuel Lube, but it is a paste and too thick. I need for fuel cap gaskets,
etc. Consistency of regular grease preferred. Thanks, Steve >>
Steve
A "safe" lubricant for fuel cap gaskets is plain old vaseline.
It is not exactly "fuel proof" but you don't want something
which will not disolve in gasoline. -- Jim
MARK’S EXCELLENT FUEL TANK ADVENTURE... (JAN 03)
From: Mark Kadrich <starwizz@pacbell.net>
Subject: Some info on belly tanks.
Hi Jim, I saw in the last newsletter that someone was asking about installing
aux belly tanks in their Swift. As I recall, you said they had to enjoy
working in tight spaces. Right on! This started with a leak in the pilot
side wing tank. I had to remove it to get it repaired. Apparently this
is an endemic problem with wing tanks. No sweat. A friend and I had the
tank out in a few hours. But, you know how it goes, "well, since
I'm in here, I might as well....". Well, the might as well for me
was removing the belly tanks to fix broken seat rails. The only way to
get at the rails is to remove the aux tanks. No small endeavor. You must
disconnect the rudder and elevator cables, the lines to the flap actuator,
and the fuel gauge tube assembly. The fuel gauge tube assembly has a small
breather hose at the top that after numerous attempts at removing got
cut off. Before the tanks can be removed you must remove the 90' AN elbow
otherwise the tank hangs on the fuselage. Then you have to stick your
hands way in the back to remove the tank straps. I highly recommend this
order because I removed the straps on the right tank and then had to remove
the AN fitting. Not fun. I still have cramps from that operation. From
beginning to end it took me 4.5 hours. You just have to be patient but
in my case it paid off since I discovered a leaking AN fitting on a vent
line. The entire top of one tank was soaked with fuel. I'm going to put
them back in next week so I'll let you know what I learn then. Take care,
Mark
BINDING FUEL SELECTOR... (MAR 03)
Subj: Fuel Selector
From: Ed Clegg <edwclg@adelphia.net>
Hi Jim,
It's been awhile since I have had need of your advice, but alas flying
these swifts will always bring us back. My fuel selector is binding. I
have the 9 gal aux tank in the fuse. The nut on the bottom of the selector
has the # 710-3-1. Would you know who made it, where a new one could be
had and if I pulled the nut off would the guts of this be removable so
as to free it up. I have used some penetrating oil and it is helping somewhat
but not enough. What do you think? Thanks again for all your help. Ed
Clegg
Ed
Do you have the Service Bulletins? Read SB #37. I think the valve was
made by Imperial. Lubricate with "FuelLube" which is a grease
which is insoluable in gasoline. FuelLube is available from Aircraft Spruce
and others. -- Jim
FUEL SELECTOR SUCCESS... (APRIL 03)
Subj: fuel sel
From: Ed Clegg <edwclg@adelphia.net>
Hi Jim,
Thanks for sending the SB on the fuel valve. I did pull it out, cleaned
and lubed it. Works like new. It is a tapered shaft, held under spring
tension. No O-rings or any other packing. A marvel of simplicity. Thanks
again, Ed
DOC’S BLUE IN THE FACE... (APRIL 03)
Subj: Fuel Gauge
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Jim:
I've worked on my fuel gauge til I'm blue in the face and it still won't
work right. Its sticking at the bottom of its travel. When I fly it unsticks
and works okay but not on the ground. I've got the vent mod so don't think
that's an issue. The gauge is actually sticking. Would you know of anyone
who has a working unit that would be available? Also, do you know of anyone
who has made one of the capacitance type systems work on a Swift? Thanks,
Doc
Doc
It sounds like your gauge is worn and sticking. I don't know who might
have one. You might try repairing it with some brass sheet & solder.
I'm sure a capacitance type sender could be adapted to work, but I'll
leave it up to some real electronics wizard to tell you how! -- Jim
HE AIN’T HEAVY... HE’S MY AUX TANK... (APRIL 03)
Subj: Aux tank
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Hi Jim:
I'm trying to do my weight and balance and need some help. I removed the
factory 9 gallon fuselage aux tank when I installed the wings I bought
that have Terry Stewart's wing aux tanks installed. Would you know the
weight of the 9 gallon aux tank that I removed? Nothing in my a/c records
give this info. I don't guess you would happen to know what the 12.4 gallon
wing aux tanks weigh would you?? Eric Maya sent me an email telling me
he has a drag link for the 3250 tailwheel. Do you know what other parts
I need to buy and where they can be bought to install the 8" pneumatic
wheel? I know I need a fork, etc. Can I buy a 3250 from Aircraft Spruce
and make it work? From a study of the parts manual it doesn't appear that
I can do that. Spruce shows a Scott Model 3200 but no 3250. Got any thoughts
here? Thanks for your help. Doc
Doc
According the Aircraft Spec.
(viewable on the Swift site) the aux. tank installation is Item 112. -
14 lbs. at +61. I would guess the wing tanks weigh about the same, maybe
a little more but I don't know that for sure. I think the 3200 tailwheel
might work, but I don't know that for sure either. Maybe you should try
calling Scott. Look them up in www.switchboard.com -- Jim
STIFF HOSE... (APRIL 03)
Subj: fuel hose connections
From: Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montigue,
Hope you are doing well. I have a quick question. were having quite a
bit of trouble putting on the hose connections that connect the fuel tanks
to the fuel sump. they are about an inch around - might as well be made
out of steel. any words of wisdom to help these slide on a bit easier?
thanks for all your help. Swift flying, ---Austin Smith
Austin
I have fought those too. There is softer hose available. I have been retired
for a long time and forget the Mil spec numbers, but I think you want
Mil-H-6000. I think it is 1-1/4" I.D. hose or Mil-H-6000-20. You
can also heat the hose with a heat gun or hair dryer and apply a little
Vaseline. If that hose is still too stiff there are softer varieties available.
-- Jim
INTERESTING USES FOR A FLASHLIGHT LENS...(APRIL 03)
Subj:fuel gage
From:Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montigue,
We have attempted to make progress and find ourselves needing help again.
I have checked the archive and they dont mention this small problem. the
the seatbelts, over the years, have XXXed the glass on the fuel gage.
is there a relativly painless way to replace this?? or do we just have
to bite the bullet, dive in, and take it all apart?? your help is always
appreciated.swift flying, Austin
Austin
There is nothing to it - just take out the 4 screws that hold the gas
guage in, remove it, and replace the glass. A flashlight lens can be found
the right size.
Jim
FUEL HOSE STUFF... (APRIL 03)
From: Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: April #4 GTS Internet Update
Denis,
In the fuel hose category - I missed the original question and answer,
but I've learned from experienced mechanics that the magical way to install
most hoses and o-rings is the liberal use of "baby batter."
Of course, you parental types will recognize that as Vaseline which is
a petroleum based lightweight grease. It's soluble in hydraulic fluid
and oil so it just helps things slip together and then seals nicely. On
the large fuel hoses, it also helps to warm them up so they are more flexible.
A heat gun set on low will get them to a temperature that makes them soft
without being too hot to handle. Installing fuel hoses isn't an easy thing
if the temperature is below 70 degrees in the hangar. Of course, out here
in California it's never too cold for Swift maintenance :-) -- Ron
FUEL HOSES... (MAY 03)
From: MarkH85@aol.com
Subject: Re: May #1 GTS Internet Update
On the fuel hoses, I try to use Stratoflex brand H-6000, it seems to be
softer and easier to work with than Aeroquip, etc. -- Mark
INSTALLATION OF A RIGHT WING FUEL FILLER... (JULY 03)
Subj: Swift Fuel Filler
From: Eric Karolek <lear35capt@comcast.net>
Hi Jim,
Can you point me in the right direction to find out info regarding installation
for a right wing fuel filler/port on a GC-1B. I also need info on 337/STC
that may apply for this mod. The wing is currently off the aircraft and
it was thought this may be the time to do this. Thanks for any light you
can shed on the subject. -- Eric Karolek
Eric
The new rules for field approvals (8300.10 Chg 16) don't specifically
say that can't be done, but it may require engineering evaluation. If
you know a mechanic with a good working relationship with an FAA inspector
he may be able to convince him it is the thing to do. Personally, I don't
believe it would be worth the effort. Do you have SB 25 done? If the vent
system is revised per SB #25 the tanks fill reasonably fast. I don't know
of a prior 337 for this mod. -- Jim
(Editor says... This one
interests me because I don’t believe I have ever seen a Swift with the
stock fuel system set up this way. I’m sure it must have been done. In
his reply Monty didn’t say that it had been done before. Anybody ever
seen one?)
MONTY HAS MORE ON THE RIGHT SIDE FUEL FILLER DEAL... (JULY 03)
I have heard there are several Swifts with the rt. fuel filler but I don't
remember ever seeing one. One thing I might have mentioned, there should
be a valve between the tanks for an airplane so equipped. If the tanks
are free to gravity flow, filling becomes hard to do, with chasing back
from one side to another and it might take longer than the stock setup!
Some airplanes you can do this on and the gravity flow is minimal, but
the Swift has a 1-1/4" tube connecting the L & R tanks and it
should flow pretty quickly. My procedure with the stock setup is as follows:
fuel until the left tank appears near full. Stop. Set the filler nozzle
aside. Go out near the left wingtip and give a heave up to extend the
left landing gear strut. Go back and finish fueling, it usually takes
another few gallons. I have to late vent system and fueling has never
been a problem. I also have the belly tanks. Mine are the early ones with
only one vent line per tank so if I am more than 28 gallons low I know
I might have to raise the tail and "burp" the airplane. As you
know, I don't fly much cross country anymore, but if I did I would be
aware that on my next leg I may not have the full 37 gallons on board
so I would not plan on needing full fuel unless I was sure the tanks had
been completely filled. -- Jim
STICKY SITUATION... (OCT 03)
Subj: sticky gas tank
From: Austin Smith <swifter78261@hotmail.com>
Dear Mr. Montague,
In keeping with the hope of flight one day - I have proceeded to begin
the removal of the right wing tank for the purpose of fitting that side
of the "new" vent system......and its sticking. My grandfather
and I had previously removed the left tank (through many months of frustration).
the main way we removed it was through use of the filler cap as leverage
to pry it out (violent, I know) - the tank escaped without damage and
we were able to install the vent for that side. However, the right side
does not have the filler cap so I am up the proverbial creek. I have tried
everything I have read in the newsletters, blue book etc...: pulling,
pushing, pulling and pushing at the same time, I even put a hydraulic
lift under the aileron hinge and gave it 1 or two cranks to take some
of the pressure out of the wing ribs pushing down on the tank (this turned
out to be the lucky break on the other tank for us) - yet nothing. I fret
when thinking about two other possible ideas: partially collapsing the
tank w/ a vacuum cleaner, or partially unriveting the bottom skin under
the tank to gain access to remove the felt that buffers (and holds tightly)
the tank. If you can shed any light on my problem I would be most thankful.
Swift Flying, ---Austin
Austin
Have you tried all the "tricks" mentioned in the blue book?
Have you put an old inner tube behind the tank and inflated it? You might
try putting a fitting (the one that normally is in there) in the vent
opening and putting a rope around it and pulling on that. If the tank
is deformed from hard landings it might be necessary to get it a little
smaller by plugging the extra openings and using a vacuum cleaner "suck"
the tank in a little. Be careful! You can easily suck it in too far. If
the tank needs reshaping after you get it out fill it with water and tap
on the high spots with a flat hammer. If you remove the AN3 bolts at the
rear of the centersection rib attach angles you can pry the skins apart
slightly more. Spray a little WD-40 on the rib felt to make the tank slide
easier. I have fought with them too -- but they always come out! -- Jim
FUEL LEAK... (NOV 03)
Subj: Losing Fuel
From: Bob Price <BobPriceSwift@aol.com>
Jim:
I filled up the swift yesterday and flew it to another airport about 45
miles away. During the flight I looked out to the left and noticed fuel
siphoning under the cover for the gas cap. 3361K has the round hinged
sheet metal cover. I have noticed fuel stains on the surface of the left
wing for several months but thought they were from spilling fuel during
fueling. When I landed I noticed fuel running from the trailing edge of
the left wing for a few minutes... I opened the cover and looked at the
cap and it was in place and secure.. I have the cap with a small vent
hole in it.... I have read everything in the archives but can not find
any answers... Can you offer any suggestions as to what to look for? There
is also a gas line at the top of the tank next to the fuel cap. -- Bob
3361K >>
Bob
There is a gas line at the top of the tank next to the fuel cap? You must
be looking at the vent line fitting. You can remove the circle of screws
in the cover plate around the gas cap and check for tightness/leaks at
the fitting. If you only have leakage when the tank is full or near full,
it is a leak at that fitting or a crack on the top surface of the tank
or the little hole in the cap is venting fuel. They drilled that hole
in some fuel caps because the early vent system did not work quite right.
SB #25 installs the later vent system and is recommended. Try operating
at not-quite-full fuel for a while. If no leakage is noted, then you have
to determine what is leaking. In a worst case scenario, the tank will
have to be pulled and repaired. Read the blue book on tank removal procedures.
This is not an easy job for a non-mechanic. -- Jim
FUEL LEAK PART II... (NOV
03)
Subj: Losing Fuel
From: Bob Price <BobPriceSwift@aol.com>
Jim:
Thank you for the information.. I inspected the cap and it has two holes.
Also the thin gasket on the gas cap is broken in two places. I will try
to use a large, thin "O" ring for the cap and block the two
holes. Hopefully this will cure the problem. As to SB#25... I do not know
if 3361K ever had this installed in the past. Is there a diagram on the
web site that I could refer to? I found the note in the SB#25 in regards
to closing the previously drilled holes by using rivets. I also noted
that the reason for the bulletin was to "prevent siphoning of fuel
and to enable the gauge to indicate the correct amount of fuel".
I have the two holes and from what I can tell I am getting the siphoning
effect and need to close the holes with rivets as indicated in SB#25.
Closing the holes will not cause a fuel starvation problem will it? As
I see it the main vent lines extend from each tank and then extend to
the main inlet at the top of the fuselage just behind the cockpit. Therefore
closing the holes in the cap should not be a problem? Thanks Jim... Bob
Bob
SB #25 is in the Swift Service Bulletins, published for many years, and
available from the Swift Parts Co. The quickest way to determine if it
has been done is to look in the wheel wells for a 3/8" vent line
running from behind the gear (not visible until it comes thru the rib)
parallel with the 1/4" hydraulic lines. I doubt if 61K has had SB
#25 done. The early vent system will work -- kind of. The most common
complaint is the fuel quantify gauge reads "0" after just a
short time, with plenty of fuel actually on board. The Swift Parts Co
had those original gaskets for the fuel cap last I knew. Closing those
two holes should not cause a fuel starvation problem as long as the rest
of the vent system is Ok. -- Jim
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP... (DEC 03)
Subj: Electric Fuel Pump for GC-1B with 145 Cont
From: jackmeyer@comcast.net (JM)
Sir, I just became the caretaker for N2321B. In the spare parts given
to me with the plane was a electric fuel pump and the Swift STC to install
it. The STC calls for the use of a Piper 481-666 or later replacement
fuel pump. The pump that came with the STC is a Facet # 40007 ( or at
least that is the number on the box). Two questions if I may. 1. What
is the right Facet number, if there is one? 2. Is the installation of
a electric pump a good idea in the first place. I have read the comments
in your archive on the web site and there is alot of discussion about
fittings but not much on whether there is any real improvement in safety
using an electric pump over the mech. pump. Again thanks for your time
and assistance with my questions. I love this bird and only want to do
what is best for her. Jack Meyer jackmeyer@comcast.net
Jack
That pump with the Piper number is available from Piper for $300 and some.
The same pump is available (the 40007 I believe) from many sources for
about $75.00 I read an Aircraft Mechanics magazine. One month some mechanic
wrote in that he had found a Facet Fuel Pump placarded "for automotive
use only." I have seen many NEW airplanes with that same placard
on their Facet Fuel Pumps! The next month in the magazine there were several
letters from mechanics noting the same thing. Product liability is a fact
of life in these United States. I bought my first 481-66 fuel pump from
a Piper Dealer in 1969 and paid the full list price of $16.95! I'll leave
the choice up to you! The electric pump is definitely an improvement.
If the engine quits due to fuel pump failure all you do is flick a switch
and you have fuel pressure. Some guys use the electric pump on all takeoffs
and landings, I don't. I had a Swift with a 150 hp Lycoming and constant
speed prop. It turned 2700 rpm on takeoff no matter what, but just didn't
feel as good with the electric pump "on." I had friends tell
me that with the electric pump "on" the airplane was trailing
black smoke on takeoff. So the extra fuel pressure was partially sinking
the float in the carburetor and making it run rich. I definitely recommend
the Facet Fuel Pump. I have one on my 145 hp Swift. I have installed several
of those fuel pumps -- but not for the last 10 years ago or so, so my
memory may be a little vague. It seems to me that if you have a late airplane
like yours the pump pretty well bolts right in and no bracket is required.
The manufacturer recommends vertical mounting of the pump but the STC
calls for mounting the pump on its side so even the original lines from
the Aero Supply No. 54609 pump line right up. If you have the earlier
Air Corps Type D-2 pump you have to make a mounting plate or bracket and
do a little plumbing. The early airplanes have some big lightening holes
in the spar web so the mounting is a little more problematical. Study
the STC drawings, it is not a hard installation at all but not one I would
like to make in an unheated hangar in NH or MN! -- Jim
FUEL STRAINER CHECK A MESSY BUSINESS...(APRIL 04)
Subj: Fuel Shut off
From: Eldon Johnston <ERJohnston@aol.com>
Monty,
At annual inspection, we tried to check fuel strainers and when we put
the fuel selector valve to the "off" position, there was a continuous
stream of fuel leaking through this valve. Are there rebuild kits... or
any suggestion? Thanks, Eldon Johnston N78077
Eldon
That is completely normal. If you study the system you will note that
the "on - off" valve is downstream of the strainer. The only
real way to pull the screen is to drain the airplane of all fuel first.
When I was younger I could pull and inspect the screen real quickly and
get it back together before losing over a quart of gasoline. I'm too old
and decrepit for that now! Some Swifts have been replumbed to place the
screen on the other side of the shutoff. With a tubing bender a neat job
can be done that looks "like factory". My guess is that Globe
kind of slipped one by the CAA on that one, and it should have been that
way in the first place. -- Jim
SWIFTRONICS STILL PERKING
AFTER 20 YEARS...(AUG 04)
Subj: Swift
From: williambulger@msn.com (William Bulger)
Hi Jim,
I'm in the process of converting my GC-1A to a lB with an 0360. In reinstalling
the early Swiftronics fuel flow system in the new flat panel I find a
bit of confusion with the wiring. I have a red wire fused for 12v and
a black wire which is the ground. The other yellow wire also was fused
which is my problem. What does it hook up to and why the in line fuse?
I also have to change the old Goodyear brakes. Would an older C-150 Cleveland
system work on the Swift? Thanks, Bill B
Bill
I have no idea of the specifics on the Swiftronics wiring. I am cc'ing
this to others who may be able to help. No, the Cessna 150 brakes won't
work on the Swift nor are they approved. Some parts may be identical but
the axle spacer and torque plate are different. The STC approved kit is
199-48 or 199-48C for chrome discs. -- Jim
Bill,
The yellow wire is the "keep alive" for the memory in the Swiftronics
RT-100. As this unit predated EEPROM technology (designed and produced
around 1983), it needs a few microamps of juice to keep the memory of
fuel used between resets. Just hook the yellow wire to the 12V battery
terminal on the battery side of the master solenoid or switch. That's
why the wire is separately fused. The battery will self-discharge at a
higher rate than the 50 microamp current the keep alive uses. A minimum
of 1A fuse is recommended as the lighter ones may fail simply due to vibration.
The red wire powers the display electronics and should be connected to
the avionics master bus so it can be turned off when the engine is shut
down. The display and power for the sensor use about 300 milliamp. The
smallest practical fuse size is about 1 amp, but 2 amp or 5 amp will also
work, since you are only protecting the aircraft from a short circuit
inside the fuel meter. Generally, the electronics will fail "open"
which draws zero current, but a fuse is always a good idea. If you need
an instruction book, drop me a snail mail address and I'll send one along.
I continue to be amazed that these units are still perking along 20 years
after they were produced! Regards, Ron Williamson <rwwilliamson@earthlink.net>
STEVE’S AIRCRAFT HAS REPLACEMENT
GASCOLATORS FOR THE SWIFT...(AUG 04)
From: "Leslie Sargent" <l_sargent@msn.com>
Subject: Replacement gascolator available for Swifts
Steve's Aircraft has gotten FAA approval for his replacement gascolator
for the Swifts. I have purchased one but not installed yet. Steve's Aircraft
has gained approval from the FAA to add the Swift to their STC SA01026SE
Approved Model List to install a replacement gascolator. The approval
is for Steve's Aircraft model SA3-00-B that directly replaces the original
K2250-D-B strainer. Please visit their web page at www.stevesaircraft.com
and click on "gascolator" to view this new product. Les Sargent
(N90347)
(Editor says... Also added this info to the "Businesses That Support
The Swift" section of the GTS Homepage.
FUEL SCREEN...(AUG 04)
Subj: Fuel screen
From: Bob Dopita <radopita@hotmail.com>
Hi Monty,
I am having a heck of a time finding the screen & gaskets for the
fuel pump on my O-300. The manufacturer won't sell to me and the jobbers
won't stock them. It seems as though I read once that the same fuel pump
had an automotive application, if so perhaps I could get parts from NAPA.
Do you know if the pump had an auto use and if so what use that might
have been? Thanks for your time, Bob Dopita
Bob
The fuel pump gasket is p/n AF-6160 and can be obtained from Aero Accessories,
Gibsonville, NC (800) 822-3200 Also I believe it might be the same as
a pre WW2 Chevrolet and is available from Antique Auto Parts Cellar --
but sorry I lost the address -- maybe one of our car guys knows. -- Jim
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