Swift Fuel System Page 2...

ASSISTANT ANSWER MAN DON BARTHOLOMEW GETS A QUESTION REGARDING PAST FUEL PUMP PROBLEM EMAILS...  (10199)
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
To: Don Bartholomew <spectro@nanosecond.com>
Don,
I've just read the e-mails regarding Ed Lloyd's fuel pump problem and feel that there may be some confusion over the terms "manual pump" (wobble pump?), "mechanical pump", "engine driven pump" and "electric pump". Also, I did not quite follow the proper assembly sequence for the gascolator. Do you know where I might find a diagram? Mine has a top gasket, a bottom gasket, a cylindrical screen, but NO flat screen. -- Dick

Dick,
I don't know of a diagram of the gascolator. The flat screen is a flat washer shaped affair. The round screen slides through the hole in the "washer". Assembly: Slide the flat screen "washer" over the round screen. Slide the round screen onto the top gascolator housing making sure the 3/8" diameter tube protrudes through the bottom of the round screen. Install the top gaskets in the top and bottom housing. Slide the round body of the gascolator in place then install the bottom cover. Safety the bolt after it is tightened. Check for leaks. The manual pump that can have a loose top is the engine driven fuel pump. One bolt holds the top cover on and in time, the gasket can shrink causing a suction leak. -- Don and Helo

SPEAKING OF FUEL PUMPS, MONTY SAYS THE RECENT FUEL PUMP AIRWORTHINESS DIRECTIVE DOES NOT APPLY IN OUR CASES...  (10199)
I was reading the (Sept. 22 AOL) chat. AD 81-07-06 (fuel pump) does not apply to a C-145/0-300. More trouble has been had by leaking fuel pumps after disassembly than trouble found. The Ercoupe that prompted the AD had not flown in about 7 years. If you run the engine regularly, you will not get the corrosion in the fuel pump (that the Ercoupe did). If it ain't broke, don't fix it! -- Jim

...TO WHICH SWIFTER EDDIE "FAA" SHIELDS REPLYS...
Jim,
Thanks for the info on the fuel pump... I found a place anyway to buy the fuel pump top cover gasket. Its p/n is very hard to find. p/n AF-6160 Found at Aero Accessories Inc in Gibsonville, NC. They also rebuild the pumps. phone # 1-800-822-3200 Price is $3.90 each for the gaskets (cork). I know thats a little high but it is an approved pma part. You know I have to stick to that due to my position. Hope this helps somebody ifn they need the info. -- Eddie

IT'S BEST TO "VENT" YOUR FRUSTRATIONS BEFORE YOU "SPILL OVER"...  (11199)
From: Eddie Shields <VSWIFT@aol.com>
Subject: Re: vent system
Hey guys,
I need help. I just flew my swift after the annual and now have a new problem. I was told by several people to turn the vent tube that is on top of the turtle deck around so it will give some pressure to the fuel tanks. Well, now the float indicator reads empty when I get into flight. I got quite a scare over these here mountains today cause I knew I had fuel but you really don't have a warm and fuzzy felling when the gage reads empty. Had to land at a small strip and get auto fuel to get to another airport. Just to make sure. The vent tube on the right wing stub also now sprays fuel out where before it didn't. I didn't use anymore fuel than normal. Just very concerned. Have any clues why this does this and is there a cure? Thanks.

Eddie,
I presume you are talking about N80615. Uh, I'm getting the idea you have not redone the vent system per the latest service bulletin. The Swift Museum Foundation came out with a revision just a couple of years ago. They can furnish a copy, or maybe I have one here someplace. I don't even refer to it anymore, simply put, eliminate the vent on the upper rh. centersection, "T" a 3/8" line from both tanks to a single 3/8" vent line running up behind the cockpit and face the opening forward. You cannot simply turn the opening forward! As you found out fuel will vent overboard from the centersection vent and the gas gauge won't read right! To do the job you need to pull the wings, then run a 3/8" tube from an AN 822-6D outboard, between the wing attach fittings, then just forward of the spar web, into the cabin, "T"ing at the left sidewall. Look at N2403B - that is a late Temco and is pretty much the way you want to do it. The factory ran the tube fwd. and drilled a hole in the spar web, but its easier to just go outboard around the end of the spar. My gas gauge on N2334B and N2431B with that vent system are very accurate, but I never put much faith in any aircraft fuel gauge. -- Jim

ARE FUEL TANKS REALLY MADE OF "UNOBTANIUM"???  (11599)
Subject: Re: GTS Internet Update#4
From: Terry Straker <TASGuitar@aol.com>
Hi guys!
I have a problem/question for Monty about my Swift N31W. I have noticed small fuel stains on the underside of the left wing root area for a few weeks. I was really hoping they were just from fuel spills during refueling, mostly because I didn't want to have to do what is now inevitable.

I have been unable to go to the airport for the last 4 weeks, and when I went up Sunday, the 8 gallons of fuel that should have been in the tank weren't. Big stain on the hangar floor under left wing root area. So I am now mid fix - I have the left outer wing panel removed, the bolt on web from the butt rib removed and am ready to pull the offending tank. Everything necessary is removed/unbloted, etc. I have read pages 79-82 of "The Blue Book" about 20 times. I think I have a grip on the next move with the innertube, but just wondered if there is any new miracle removal method or cautions that I may need to know. Don't want to damage the tank as I imagine they are made of "unobtanium." I would certainly appreciate any additional direction that you may be able to give. Thanks 1,000,000!!!! -- Terry Straker

Terry,
It sounds like you have done your homework. About all I can add to the excellent instructions in the "Book" are that you might luck out and just be able to slide the tank out manually. Try spraying some silicone spray or WD-40 on the felt in the rib cutouts to "grease" the process of removing the tank. If the tank is bulged from hard landings or whatever, apply suction to partially collapse the tank -- be careful! Before you remove the vent fitting, tie a rope around it and with a helper pushing on the other end, pull on the rope. If the tank slides out, great. If it doesn't, it's time for the inner tube. When you get the tank out, in the 80 octane days the leak would be pretty obvious by the red fuel stains. Since you have a 100 octane engine now you may have to apply a little pressure and use soap bubbles. I mean "little", like blow up a rubber glove and clamp it with rubber bands to the tank outlet. The tank is made of 5052-0. (it was called 52SO in 1946) Before welding, purge with quantities of water, then fill with an inert gas while welding. Instead of chromating the tank, I like to apply a sloshing compound to all the welds. ( 3M EC776 or some of the stuff they sell for old cars, Fuller made a sloshing compound for floats that also worked on fuel tanks) I hesitate to slosh the entire tank, if ever necessary to repeat this job, it might be me that has to do it! With the ingredients of 100LL these days, I also do not recommend sloshing the interior of the tank. Good luck! -- Jim

ON THE GC-1A FUEL SYSTEM...  (010100)
Subject: Re: GC-1A fuel system
From: Roy Cook <RCook63133@aol.com>
Today was the first flight for me,i noticed the fuel valve looked like it had odd wording, I don't have a fight manual, have it orded tho. anything u tell me would be of great help.

Roy,
First of all, congratulations on buying N80745. You will find the GC-1A is a much maligned airplane, but if operated within its limitations, it is just fine. There are several people that like the GC-1A better than anything else. (Note, I am cc'ing this to Pete King) The manual you will get from Swift will not be of help as far as your early 2 fuel pump system goes. The early GC-1A's had a parallel system with two lines from the selector to separate fuel pumps on the engine, then "T"ed at the carburetor. If everything is working, fine, but the lower pump is no longer available, rebuild kits can be obtained, but for a long term solution I might suggest an electric pump. I can give further details if needed.  -- Jim Montague

FUEL SELECTOR VALVE FOR AUX TANK... (030200)
Subj: fuel selector valve
From: Marvin Homsley <marvin@accesstoledo.com>
Jim, I was considering building a baggage compartment aux tank and got to looking at the fuel system plumbing. Right now the fuel selector valve has and extra port that is plugged. If this is another selector position, is it for another tank or what. It would sure be nice if I could just plumb my new aux tank right into the existing fuel selector valve. Marvin Homsley N80740

Marv,
Has there ever been a baggage compartment aux. tank installed in your Swift? It sounds like you have a Temco fuel selector for the aux. tank installed. Or, if it says "emer" it is a GC-1A selector, meant for two engine driven fuel pumps. Item 112. on the original type certificate is a baggage compartment aux. tank. You can look at the type certificate on the Swift Home Page. It calls out the drawing number etc. You should call Joe at Swift Parts and see what's available. -- Jim

FINDING A LEAK... (030200)
Subject: Fuel Suction Leak
From: "Ed A. Lloyd" <edlloydaustin@juno.com>
Jim,  Recall our talking about an air leak on the suction side of the engine driven pump being hard to find? Well I may have just stumbled into a suction leak on 56K by accident. I had made up my mind to replace the fuel pump on the engine. When I put a set of wrenches on the fittings to remove the input / output lines, they were both loose. The line to the carb (pressure) wasn't as loose as the suction line was. After removing the suction line, I tightened the AN adapter fitting in the pump body two full turns before it was tight. Additionally, I removed the fuel shutoff valve to inspect why it was seeping fuel. What I found was the Bottom screw / plug that holds the spring against the tapered valve body had no copper washer on it to seal the joint. Fuel lubed the valve, installed the proper washer and put back together. Soooo, I'm going to button everything back together and see if it makes a difference. I've gotten all the preventive maintenance done I started out to do and am in the process of re-assembling 56K now. Cheers....Ed

TANKS FOR THE ADVICE GUYS... (030500)
Subject: Re: fuel tanks
From: Lee Davis <N80730@aol.com>
I am working on pulling fuel tanks ou of my Swift .. are there any tricks for getting them out and do I have to unscrew the filler neck on the L/H tank -- Lee D.

Lee,
Don't you have the blue "Maintenance and Operation" book the Assn. put out about 1987? It covers the removal of the tanks quite well. There are a lot of tricks! Yes, you've gotta remove the filler neck. If you don't have that book, get it. -- Jim

Lee,
Defuel, with the wing off, remove the false rib, disconnect the vent line, disconnect the fuel transfer line in the belly, then with one pushing and someone pulling, it should move. If it doesn't, try using a small vacuum on the fuel transfer nipple while pushing. BE CAREFUL BECAUSE YOU CAN COLLAPSE THE TANK WITH THE VACUUM. Monty will have to coach you through the tank with the filler fitting. -- Ed Lloyd

BOB AND JIM DISCUSS SB25 AND FUEL GAGE ACCURACY... (050100)
From: Bob Runge ejectr@javanet.com
Jim: While perusing my books re: the Swift I studied in higher detail than normal the above SB. I knew I complied with SB# 25 because I checked it before. The only difference between my vent set up and the SB is that my vent line vents out the bottom of my aircraft and not the top. The routing of the vent line takes it along the left inside of the fuselage to the top of the fuselage, where it curls back down the same side to the bottom of the belly and exits in the middle, all one piece of line. The end protrudes straight out the belly skin (no hook or curled part) and is cut what appears to be parallel with the belly or ground. All the rest of the plumbing is according to the SB. Is this OK?

Bob,
Simple answer, NOPE! I don''t know how you can say you complied with s/b #25, that doesn't sound anything like it. In S/B #25 the vent lines come forward from the tank fittings (3/8" lines), forward thru the spar web, then down thru the wheelwells, and "T"ing with the trap vent and another 3/8" line that goes up the left side of the cockpit to a forward facing opening behind the cabin.

Jim, You misunderstood. My vent plumbing does all that. Where it comes together at the "T", the 3/8" inch line goes up to the top of the fuselage, but instead of exiting, it goes back down the same side and exits the bottom.

Bob,
I understand that ok. The service bulletin calls for the vent to the atmosphere to be that forward facing hook aft of the cabin on the top of the fuselage. My airplane is s/n 3731 and was made that way in 1950. You might not be able to see it in .jpg pictures, but believe me, it's there. Your setup with the vent line going up high in the fuselage and then down to exit on the bottom is probably safe enough from a fuel delivery standpoint, but I wonder how accurate your gas gauge is? The latest systems, (like mine) read very accurately. Service Bulletin compliance is not mandatory. I had several early vent systems in some Swifts, and the gas gauge always read "0" after a half hour of flight. I just lived with that, but it is nice to have an accurate fuel indication.

Jim,  So far I seem to have good fuel gauge accuracy in the amount of time I've owned and flown the aircraft. Where could I get one of those vent "hooks" if I want to exit the 3/8" vent line out the top as per the SB?

Bob,
You need a tubing bender and a little 3/8" tubing and it is very simple to make. Measure another airplane to determine where to put the hole in the skin. Measure a late s/n, like 3600 -- 3700 or thereabouts, they had the vent system like that from the factory. If your gas gauge reads correctly, it may be just as good or better than the factory setup. Having the vent out the belly might have some advantages over having it located on the top skin. BUT - it's not the approved method and you are "experimental". If it works -- great -- but it is not in accord with approved data. You can tie into the existing vent line anywhere below the skin using a short piece of hose and a couple of clamps.

Jim:  Understood.... I will be changing the exit location to conform to the SB. I got to tell you Jim, when I find stuff like this..... I really have to wonder why ALL the other previous owners didn't care enough to do this stuff. Thanks once again for your help.

Bob,
Well, like I said, it may be as good as, or better than the Temco setup. But it's not proven. The vent on the belly may have some advantage over the vent on the upper skin. (Less likely to get rainwater into the fuel system etc.) I suppose someone may have thought about it and decided that was a better way to do it. Whether they are right or not I couldn't say. The fact remains there is no approved data to do it that way. -- Jim

BUBBLE CANOPY FUEL VENT ROUTINGS... (050200)
From: Jim Montague <Monty747@aol.com>
Denis,
After the recent discussion of Bob Runge's fuel vent, several bubble canopy equipped Swift owners wrote me, "my Swift has a vent system like that!" Well, I never had a bubble canopy, and quite frankly, never thought about that. Obviously, with the canopy slid back, the fuel vent would interfere, so Jack Nagel relocated it like Bob's airplane has it. I don't know if that issue is addressed specifically in the STC, but the airplane was flight tested and satisfied the feds for the granting of the STC. I don't know how accurately the gas gauge reads with that vent setup, but Bob said his system apparently reads ok. Maybe other bubble canopy owners will comment.  --  Jim



On to page three of fuel system stuff...