MONTY THE ANSWER MAN ARCHIVE...
SWIFT
WINGS
WING ATTACH FITTINGS...
(11299)
From: Pete King <peetking@earthlink.net>
CC: arbeau@napanet.net
Did the long wing fittings come just on the upper fitting? -- was there
a particular period of time when they were used? I think 80518 has them
too!
Pete, N80518 had long
fittings top and bottom. If you look at S.B. 27 you will see they started
the short fittings at s/n 32. From 32 thru 158 the upper fitting needed
to be changed to the longer conversion fitting, 11-010-3554 to convert
to a GC-1B. At least that's what the S.B. says, I still find an occasional
later s/n with short fittings! The legal G.W. with the short fittings
is 1570 lb. -- Jim
COMIN' IN ON A WING AND
A PRAYER... (11499)
Subject: Re: Swift Wing
From: Larry LaForce <LaForce55@aol.com>
Jim... What would be the proper technique of reassembling an outer wing
panel that has been completely disassembled? Is there a fixture or a jig
that needs to be used to maintain the proper shape and form?
Larry, Are the old
skins available? Straighten them out as much as possible if they are damaged.
Cleco them in place, at least the ones between the spars. That should
give you the proper twist, or lack of it, because the Swift wings are
"straight" - no washin or washout. There are no jigs available that I
know of, nor should a jig be necessary if you have the old skins. Use
a string between the aileron hinge bearings to make sure they are aligned.
If you don't have the old skins, back drilling the holes in the new skins
is a difficult job, but not impossible. If you have to do this, jig up
the wing leading edge down and align the inboard and outboard ribs to
"0" washout. Then backdrill the skins thru the holes in the structure.
You might want to use an extension drill about a foot long for many of
the holes. -- Jim
"STRIP SHOW"...
(010300)
Subject: Re: Swift speed
From: wasinc@northpro.net
Monty,
Flew the swift late this afternoon both double occ. and solo but pretty
full of gas, the side to side yaw seems to be gone and airspeed shows
185 at 25/25 Gps showed about 178, did notice that the wing to center
section straps were flying" pretty good even though we just tightened
them today. What is the best way to hold them down flat. You also mentioned
foam between ailerons/flaps and tail surfaces, could you explain that
in more detail like what kind of foam. Is this air pressure in the wing
making those strips fly up? and the foam blocks some of that? Temp was
about zero so speed could be from that difference since last flight of
28 degrees. I just bought a digital camera so when I figure it out I will
send you a picture. Steve
Steve,
The gap strips "flying up" are one of the biggest potential drag producers
on the Swift. That area has a really low pressure, I've had them so tight
you could hardly pry them up, and the next flight they rode up considerably.
With them off, tape up the gap between the wing and center section, the
reinstall the gap strip. You can even make the upper surface of the gap
strip semi-permanent by application of some sealant, (over tape) they
vary somewhat, sometimes you just have to install some screws to hold
them down. The foam seals I mentioned can be made out of common hardware
store foam that they sell for insulating doors, windows etc. (3M or whatever)
They sell it in rolls, 3/8"x 1/2" or whatever fits between your wing upper
trailing edge and the aileron or flap. It is best installed with the surface
off with contact cement. -- JM
BE SURE TO GET THOSE
WING BOLTS TIGHT... (040500)
Subject: Torque
From: Perry Sisson <diamond055@email.msn.com>
Hi Jim, I have a question. Do you know if the torque for the wing
bolts is listed in any of the manuals. I have most of them , but I could
not find it. The mechanic doing my annual is pretty picky about certain
things. So if this is all he wants , then I want to get it for him. If
it's not in print could you let me know what they are? Thanks, Perry
Perry,
I have not seen it in print either, but I use 40 -- 50 foot/lbs. Check
your standard torque tables. I don't think that is too far off for a 1/2"
bolt. I didn't make it to SnF but I would like to make Swift National.
I started some new medication last week which I hope will improve my condition.
- Jim
PLAYING THE SLOTS...
(050200)
From: Richard G MacInnes <rmacinnes@juno.com>
Is there someone out there who has a real life experience with closing
the wing slots only. I've heard so many stories but they are usually "that
won"t work" or "it's too difficult to handle" etc. or they did the mod
in conjunction with other, more dramatic changed.( Like horsepower, canopies,
fillets, small wheels, stall strips.etc.) Just looking for info, not opinions.
Dick MacInnes N80923
Dick,
I don't feel there was a whole lot of engineering involved with the wing
slots. At Denton, TX in 1979 someone asked Bud Knox why the Swift had
wing slots, he answered, "because the Culver Cadet had wing slots." In
other words, it was the "in" thing to do for a while. The Stinson and
some other WW2 types had wing slots also in that era. I have flown Swifts
both ways, and don't see a whole lot of difference. I closed them (temporarily)
on my first GC-1A in 1966. It didn't go any faster, or seem to make much
difference in the stall either. I flew a friends Swift once that had closed
slots, Buckaroo wing tips, and the stall strip removed. That was the only
Swift I ever flew that I can say had a mean stall. Gear and flaps down,
it would hang on to about 45 mph and in the stall it would break sharply,
if it were accelerated at all it would break inverted. Not good! Thankfully,
he took my advice and put a stall strip back on. I have flown big engined
Swifts with closed slots and think they might gain 2 or 3 mph. I don't
see much difference in the ailerons. Maybe these are just opinions! --
Jim
(Swift expert Don Bartholomew
also replies...)
Hi All,
Here are my personal experiences with slots. First, I have no experience
with closed slots on a stock airplane. The first plane I flew with closed
slots was a plane similar to my own. It had a 150 Lyc and half stall strips.
What I looked for when I flew it was to check aileron response at stall.
I found with both planes, mine open slots, other closed slots, that aileron
response was good down into the stall buffet. I didn't see any detectable
difference in that respect.
I have never taken a plane
and just closed the slots without doing anything else to see if there
was any speed change, either in cruise or at stall. I have closed the
slots on 210 hp planes with half stall strips and machined stall strips.
I had no experience flying these planes prior to slot closure so I can't
give any before/after comparison. The planes with the slots closed seemed
to fly fine.
It has been said the slots
were installed as handles to drag the plane around on the ground. They
can be effective for this. If the slots are closed, it is harder for two
people to each grab a wing and move the plane.
Dick, this probably doesn't
answer your question, and may cause more confusion, but this has been
my experience. I am open to other thoughts on the subject. Don and Helo
(Editor's note: Jim mentioned
Bud Knox. For those of you new to the World of the Swift, Bud was Chief
Engineer for Globe Aircraft. He was still around in the late 70's and
early 80's so he was able to answer a lot of questions from Swifters regarding
why things were done on the Swift the way they were. Now... not to disagree
with what Jim recalls about his conversation with Bud Knox, but... In
1985 I asked Bud why the Swift has slots and he said that they didn't
want to take the time, tooling, and effort to put "twist" in the wing
to keep the outboard part of the wing flying and ailerons effective while
the inboard part was stalling. They felt that the slot was simpler. Bud
also said that in his opinion it didn't do any good, drag reduction wise,
to cover the slots unless the cruise speeds were gonna be over 170 mph.)
GENTLE PERSUASION DINGED
THREAD... (060300)
Subject: NAS 58-16 Bolts
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Hi Jim:
Glad to hear you made it to the Nationals. Someday I'll be there. Pulled
my fuel tank out yesterday and it didn't go too bad. I didn't remove the
aileron or the flap other than the control cables to the bell crank for
the aileron and two attach bolts on the flap. Wing came off like gang
busters EXCEPT........ I had to use some gentle persuasion on the NAS
58-16 bolts and dinged the thread on one. Where can I get these bolts?
Didn't see them in Aircraft Spruce. Thanks Jim. Best regards....... Bob
Runge
Bob,
Did you call Swift Parts? Joe is not there anymore, but someone will be
there! I know they have the bolts. I think the old NAS number is obsolete.
I think the current number is NAS 1308-16. Perhaps just a cleanup
of the end treads of your present bolt will suffice, use a 1/2" NF die.
If you do replace the bolt(s), try them in the wing attach fittings first.
If they are too tight, chuck them in a lathe or drill press and polish
them down to the diameter of the fittings. They should tap in freely,
not have to be driven in with a large hammer! -- Jim
GENTLE PERSUATION PART
II... WELL, OK, MAYBE SWIFT PARTS DOESN'T HAVE THE BOLTS... IN WHICH CASE
HERE'S WHAT YOU DO... (060300)
In the email above, I had told Bob to call Swift Parts. He then posted
a note on the Yahoo Globe Temco Swift Club message board that they didn't
have any. Well, they usta have 'em at Swift Parts! You don't necessarily
want close tolerance bolts. The 1308 NAS bolts are high-strength and mike
about .498 I believe. The old 1946 bolts mike about .496. That's why I
mentioned polishing them down to the diameter of the fittings. Of course,
it's possible your wing and centersection fittings may have worn a thousandth
or two in 50 years. I think Aircraft Spruce will have them even if they
don't list them in their catalogue. There are other aircraft bolt suppliers,
look in Trade-A-Plane if Aircraft Spruce can't help you. -- Jim
GENTLE PERSUATION PART
III... (060300)
From: Jared Smith <jedswift@aol.com>
The online Aircraft Spruce catalog has the NAS 1308-16 as NA. I would
try Spensor Aircraft in Seattle ((206) 763-0800), they had those conical
washers for the control surfaces on the wings when no one else had them.
AD Swayne ((206) 762-2510), also in Seattle, has many difficult to find
items
GENTLE PERSUATION PART
IV... BOB FINDS THE RIGHT BOLTS... (060300)
From: Bob Runge <ejectr@javanet.com>
Here's the deal on the bolts. Called AD Swayne in Seattle and he gave
me the number for Aircraft Supply in Dallas (214-637-3598). They have
them but are out of stock and are ordering them for me. The number in
the Swift book is NAS 58-15 (-16 on SN 2- 31) That was replaced by NAS
1308-15 (or 16) which is now replaced by NAS 6608-15 (or 16). If you want
a drilled shank it's -D15 (or-D16). Many thanks for the numbers, Jared
and the help Jim! -- Bob Runge
BUT GARY, THEY MAKE SUCH
GOOD HANDLES!!! (060600)
Subj: CLOSING OF SLATS/SLOTS
From: GARY WILLIAMS <garyjw@Intekom.co.za>
Dear Jim,
I am thinking of closing my slats/slots on my Swift, and replacing the
rivets with flush rivets up to but excluding the rivets on the main spar.
Please from your experience can you tell me the difference in cruise speed
I can expect to gain, and what my expected stall speed may be. Regards,
Gary Williams e-mail: <garyjw@intekom.co.za>
Gary,
With the bigger engines, such as your 210, most guys figure they gain
4 or 5 mph. In my personal experience, with the smaller engines, like
a 145, you don't notice much, if any difference. The stall speed will
decrease slightly. (more effective wing area) The stall may break a little
sharper, and there may be a little more tendency to roll off at the break.
The ailerons remain effective to the stall. The "old" STC method of closing
the slots involved simply filling the slot opening with .025 Aluminum,
using cherry rivets. Many guys now make up new ribs and skin that area
back to the spar, but the US FAA is not too keen on using flush rivets.
-- Jim
RUBBER "BUTTON" GROMMENTS...
(090300)
From: "Tim Eyster" <teealme@jps.net>
Subject: information request
>From Bill Merwin in Clarksburg, CA:
My Swift has access holes in the top and bottom of the wing where rubber
"button" grommets were used to cover the hole. Being various diameters,
it is difficult to identify a single item. I am in search of a set (if
such a thing still exists) or ideas from other Swifters of how ingenious
they have been to address this situation. I haven't found any exact
replacement buttons, but there may be some that might work. We had a guy
in this area who has a plastic molding company and he gave us a quote
which was pretty high. (like a couple bucks apiece in quantities of a
thousand) I think there must be something available from the antique auto
suppliers for just a few cents each. I will check out Bob Drake, he has
a lot of rubber parts for old Fords. -- Jim (Editor's note: I've
seen Swifts with hole covers made out of metal. Correct me if I'm wrong
but I think they are called "Wilkie Buttons"???)
SOME RUBBER BUTTON SOLUTIONS...
(090400)
From:James Ray <James.Ray@tbe.com>
Subject: RE: RUBBER "BUTTON" GROMMETS...
Denis, In reference to RUBBER "BUTTON" GROMMETS... From: "Tim Eyster"
- try the fastener section at Lowes. I've had great success using the
little black plastic buttons to fill in small antenna and access holes.
These buttons are a bit more flush than the original rubber ones. The
steel buttons or plugs used for electrical panels fit nicely in the exposed
end of the gear axle. Flying off a grass field (well, some of the year)
necessitated closing the hole to keep out grass, dirt, and bugs. -- Jim
Ray - N99B
From: Richard Aaron <raaron@pica.army.mil>
Subj: Comments
Jim, Re: Bill Merwin's query about rubber "button" grommets. I've
used some plastic hole covers that I got from the local hardware store.
They come in either black or white but can be spray painted and have a
nice low profile. However, they snap into place and may be a little difficult
to remove without marring them. On the other hand they're cheap to replace.
Also, the max size at the hardware store may not be large enough. Years
ago I got some custom made stainless steel hole covers that are flat and
have a small access hole for an Allen wrench to install them. They were
available from the Swift Parts Dept. and are very nice but to my knowledge
they've been long gone. Another thing I've done is to use circles cut
from a roll of aluminum foil tape. This works well, especially for polished
aluminum Swifts. On painted ones there may be a problem of peeling the
paint when removing as the adhesive holds pretty well. They form a shallow
dimple, and for improved appearance I make an aluminum disc from thin
sheet to fill the hole, using the tape to hold it in place. I found that
some holes had to be dressed to get perfectly round. It takes a little
technique to get everything concentric and neat looking and you have to
be careful not to accidentally drop the disc into the hole when dealing
with holes on top. Regards, Dick, N2405B
From: Larry Owen <T081763@sphn.com>
Subject: Access covers -Reply
I use two different "access covers" for my Swift. One is a stainless steel
"pop in" cover, flat with springy tabs that pop into the hole and lock
in. These can be gotten at the larger hardware stores (Home Depot, Home
Base, Builders Square, Etc.). They come in several sizes from 3/8 to 1&1/4.
Prices are generally less then a dollar. The problem with them is
that the access hole must not be irregular in shape or they are vibrate
loose. The other method is to get some button snaps" from your larger
Auto parts stores (Pep Boys, Checker, Auto Zone, Etc.). These black plastic
"giant thumbtacks" are used on cars in the interior and the engine compartment
to hold insulation down. I cut off the "tack" part and lightly glue them
down over the access hole with clear silicon glue. Lightly glued is the
key, as they can be removed and cleaned up with your fingernail. The silicon
glue also keeps rainstorms, or in my case, sandstorms, from getting past
the seal and getting into the push rods and other interior wing parts.
They come in dozens of sizes and can cover just about any normal or irregular
wing access hole. The prices are very reasonable and you get several in
each package. Larry Owen, N78287, El Paso, Texas <T081763@sphn.com>
WING, ONE EACH, EXCHANGE...
(090400)
Subj: Wings
From: Donald Williams <donaldwilliams@prodigy.net>
Monty, I am afraid that I need to get my wing overhauled!!! Do you
know a shop, a good one that can disassemble a Swift wing and inspect
them including the spar and reskin!! This job will probably require some
ribs as well. This is not a job that I would even consider taking on myself.
Thanks Don Williams. N80901
Don, The Swiftworks
in Athens, TN is your best bet. <swiftwks@bellsouth.net> The Swift
Parts Company has some wings for sale on an exchange basis if you're in
a hurry. -- Jim
YOU CAN'T FIX THIS KIND
OF "WEB" WITH NEW SOFTWARE...(120400)
Subj: Spar web
From: Mark Fischer <mark@aviationresearch.com>
Hi Monty:
What does it mean to have a "wrinkled" spar web? As I understand
it, the web is a thin piece of aluminum connecting the top and bottom
spar caps - like the long tall part of an "I" beam. I heard
that early Swifts did not even have one, or had one with lightening holes.
I guess this occurs after a "drop-in" landing, which could have
occurred back in an Eisenhower administration, or last year. Is this a
structural concern? Will it impact resale? Should it be fixed? -- Mark
R. Fischer
Mark,
The later Swifts, made after about July 1946, had a one-piece spar web.
it is the full width of the centersection between the wing attach fittings
(about 10 feet) and the height is the depth of the centersection. The
earlier serial numbers, like your N80787 have a 3 piece web, a left and
a right, from the fuselage outboard and a center portion which is actually
a fuselage bulkhead. When these early centersections are removed from
the fuselage there is nothing between the spar caps in the center portion,
the web, which is a fuselage bulkhead stays behind. Yes, it has big lightening
holes. If yours is wrinkled it is probably in the wheel well area. I had
a Temco letter, detailing limits for the wrinkles. As I recall, the limits
are pretty liberal, like about 3/8". Sorry I don't know what happened
to that letter, maybe there is another one out there. Removing the wrinkles
is a big job, involving removing the wings and fuel tanks, but really
is not too bad once you gain access. Vertical stiffeners are usually riveted
to the .040 web and all that shows in the wheelwell is an extra rivet
row. If within limits, it should not be a structural concern but if anywhere
near limits it does not look very good and may be a justifiable reason
for a future buyer to reject the airplane. I would get it fixed. -- Jim
DICK FOUND SOME SPAR WEB
REPAIR INFO FOR MARK...(120500)
Subject: Web repair
From: Richard G MacInnes <rmacinnes@juno.com>
In the "Maintenance and Operation Information of the Swift"
on page 21 it refers to a Temco drawing R-11-020-0001 for a "standard
repair". Swift may have this drawing. Good luck, Dick MacInnes N80923
WING RESKIN... (120101)
Subj: question for Monty the Answer Man
From: Paul Ross <ross9290@aol.com>
Marshall Nash and I are restoring a Globe Swift, N2336B. The left wing
was damaged with one upper outboard wing panel in tact. Upon opening the
wing, minor corrosion was found. Could you advise us of the proper sequence
for reskinning this fixture mounted skeleton? Thank you for any assistance
you can give us, as this will speed 36B back to flight worthy status.
Paul Ross
Paul
If you make up new skins, back drill them off the old removed skins, then
if you cleco the wing together it should not have any twist to it. If
the old skins are damaged, hammer them back to their original shape as
much as possible. If this is not possible, jig up the wing with the leading
edge down and drop a plumb line down at the end ribs. A Swift wing has
no twist to it. The sequence would be: 1. The top beaded skins 2. The
leading edge skins 3. the bottom beaded skins. You need one set of beaded
skins open to buck the rivets along the main spar for the leading edge,
then close it up working your way aft. -- Jim
REPAIRING THE REAR SPAR
ATTACH...120101)
Subj: wing attachments
From: Austin Smith <P51pilot44@cs.com>
Dear Mr. Montigue,
What is the best way to repair a "wrinkled" rear wing attachment
point? clamps, or just buy a new one? I'd like to hear ur expert opinion
on this problem of mine. Thanks again for all ur help. swift flying, ---Austin
Smith
Austin
The rear spar attach point is relatively easy to repair. There is an aluminum
fitting riveted to the spar, which has the one hole for the 1/4"
bolt which attaches it to the centersection. If this fitting is broken
or cracked a new one can be duplicated from 2024 T3 Alclad, I forget the
thickness, but it is about 1/4" thick I think. If the spar is damaged,
it should be straightened as much as possible and a doubler installed
per AC43.13-1B figure 4-22. Rivet everything back together and it should
be fine. -- Jim
RIVETING UNDERSIDE WING PANELS...(030202)
Subj: wing skins
From: P51pilot44@cs.com
Dear Mr. Montague,
I've got another small problem. What would be the best way to rivet together
the underside wing panels, the bottom of the leading edge piece and the
panel under it that are both riveted to the main and rear spar web (respectively)?
It's quite a ways into the wing to get myself into to buck the rivets.
what's the best way to do this? How did the factory do it? Should we rivet
as far as my arm can reach to buck the rivets, and then do the rest with
blind rivets? My grandfather had taken your advice and sent off for those
oversized rivets (about two weeks ago). We have so far riveted the top
side leading edge ribs and main spar. Those rivets helped out alot on
those old holes in the spar. Thanks for the info on reskinning the wing!
Thanks for your help. swift flying, ---Austin
Austin
You need one skin, either the top or bottom, off. If you are repairing
or replacing the leading edge skin do that first. Install the rivets in
the spar, bucking thru the open side. That's the easy part! On the last
skin you need to shoot the rivets in the spar first, then close up working
aft along one of the ribs, then work inboard or outboard and finish up
along one of the end ribs. There are many "tricks" -- like the
oversized 1/8" rivets I mentioned a while back. (sorry, I don't have
the p/n in front of me but I can get it if you need it) You might have
to make up a few special bucking bars. To summarize, to get at the rivet
row in the spar near the center of the wing, you either need a long bucking
bar or drill out the rivets along the trailing edge and open up the whole
skin. I don't believe in blind rivets. They are necessary in a few places
in a control surface but not in the wing. If you need further advice please
write back. -- Jim
FRONT AND CENTER...(060102)
Subj: Wing center section
From: Keoki Gray <jankeoki28@aol.com>
You may have seen the ad for the Swift that requires work on the center
section (in the current "For Sale" listings). It states that
the wing spar angles have corrosion and need to be replaced, but it comes
with a serviceable center section/angles. I am an A & P, and was wondering
what was involved in the required work. I assume it would be much easier
to simply replace the center section than to disassemble and reinstall
the angles. Could you please give me a rough estimate of man-hours required
either way? Thanks. Keoki Gray
Keoki
Yes it might be easier to change the whole center section, but maybe the
spar cap angles are all that is serviceable on the replacement. There
are a lot of big rivets to shoot in the spar caps The angles can be replaced
with the centersection in place if the fuselage is separated at sta. 35
and the firewall and whole forward bay is removed. This of course entails
separating all the control cables, wiring and fuel lines. The subject
aircraft is s/n 11 and be aware that there are two styles of centersections
-- the bolted on type and the riveted on type. S/N 11 would be the earlier
(GC-1A) style. (Riveted on) I recall laying on my back in a gravel parking
lot in New Jersey drilling out rivets to remove the centersection from
s/n 8, 25 years ago. I did not separate the fuselage at sta. 35 but in
retrospect, it would have made the job easier! I hesitate to guesstimate
the man hours either way as I have not done those jobs for at least 15
years. Working part time, I recall it took over a month to change a center
section. -- Monty
SOME TORQUE ABOUT WING ATTACH FITTING BOLTS... (JAN 03)
Subj: Wing attach fittings
From: Doc Moore <darladoc@sport.rr.com>
Hi Jim: What are your thoughts on the torque values for the wing attach
fittings? The bolts are all AN-6's with the exception of 1 AN-5 on each
fitting. I've researched at length and talked to Mark Holliday, Scott
Anderson, and Vaughn Armstrong. Each of them say tighten them 'til you
can't turn them with a wrench (meaning the tightened bolts) The 43-13
says the AN-6's should torque in the 180 inch pound range. That's with
an AN365 nut and lower value than the normal 125,000 on the bolt. It also
shows max at 390 inch pounds on the top side with the stronger bolt. After
much research on the web concerning torque I came to the conclusion that
300 inch pounds was a good compromise with 225 on the AN-5's. I called
my A.I. who inspects my work and signs me off and he came and checked
them and said that they were plenty tight and he agreed with the 300 number
on the AN-6's. Thanks for your input. Doc Moore
Doc
I certainly agree with those other guys but I'm wondering something. Might
the nuts be bottomed on the threads? If you are using AN bolts or NAS
1300 bolts you have the long threads. If you have NAS 1100 bolts they
have the short threads. Even with AN bolts one more washer might be appropriate.
Standard torque should work fine. -- Jim
WING ATTACH BOLTS... (MAR 03)
Subj: Wing Attachment Bolts
From: Mark Oltjenbruns <moltjenb@bellsouth.net>
Hi Jim ,
I have a question about the wing attachment bolts . On the left wing there
is a slight movement . Can these bolts just be tighten or should these
bolts be replaced ? If replaced should I turn down the bolts to fit or
slightly enlarge the bolt hole in the attachment area ? The number in
the Swift book is NAS 58-15 (-16 on SN 2- 31) That was replaced by NAS
1308-15 (or 16) which is now replaced by NAS 6608-15 (or 16). It looks
like Aircraft Supply in Dallas (214-637-3598). Has them. Regards , Mark
Oltjenbruns Swift 78311
Mark
If there is movement, the bolt(s) should be replaced. You've got the number
right I believe. When you get the new bolt, it will mike around .499.
DON'T ream out the fittings. With the wing off, try the new bolt in the
attach hole. If it is too tight, (good!) chuck it in a lathe or drill
press and turn it or polish it down for a tight fit. The bolt should fit
tight but freely in the hole. Mark the head to show yourself where the
cotter pin hole is. Torque the nut to 40 ft. lbs. min. Use washers if
you can't get the proper torque with the cotter pin hole lined up. I think
I have some 6608-16 bolts, if you have trouble getting them I could borrow
them to you until you get some. -- Jim
GC-1A vs -1B... (FEB 04)
From: Bill Stein <wrstein@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: February #2 GTS Internet Update
Can a sn#47 be a GC-1B? My understanding is that it will always have GC-1A
wing attach (I don't know if the earlier attach is better or not...).
-- Bill
Bill
If you read SB #27 you will see the steps necessary to convert a GC-1A
to a GC-1B. Early GC-1A’s need new upper wing attach fittings (p/n 11-010-3554).
The early airplanes had a short (about 6") fitting. The later airplanes
had about a 12" fitting. The lower fittings are all 6" fittings
after s/n 32. The Merlyn gross weight STC adds an additional 6" strap
to the lower wing attach. SB #27 says the upper wing fittings must be
replaced on s/n 32 thru 158. This is not exactly right as I have seen
many later GC-1A s/n's with the short upper fitting, like your s/n 182.
But don't get excited, I believe your fittings have been changed. The
wing/fuselage attach is superior on the earlier GC-1A's and the first
100 GC-1B's. (s/n 1000 - 1100) On these airplanes the fuselage is riveted
to the centersection. About June 1946 when Temco started their production,
the wing/fuselage attach was changed to a bolt on style. -- Jim
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